Saturday morning, May 17, 2014 After the cruise, we struggled to get out of the boat like a bunch of cattle. I guess this is inevitable with 1,700 passengers and only one exit. We took our only taxi of the entire trip to the airport to catch our 45 minute flight from Denmark to Germany. Berlin’s Tegel Airport reminded us of Chicago’s smaller Midway Airport. We traveled on a bus and two trains to our apartment on Bernauer Straße in the very chichi neighborhood of Prenzlauer Berg. From the train, we had to walk about ½ mile dragging our luggage to the apartment over cobblestone sidewalks. A friend of the landlady was waiting and took us up to, what turned out to be, a brand new place. In fact, it looked to be only about 30% complete. There were construction workers in the building every day. Luckily, we were the second people to ever rent the place. We weren’t sure white floors, walls, cabinets and furniture would work out so well for the owner, Jana. From the picture window, we looked down on Bernauer Straße and Mauerpark across the street. The Berlin Wall formerly ran down this street. No Man’s land, the property adjacent to the wall is being transformed with new buildings. This Ost-West (East-West) Café was nearby, with a very interesting old Trabant parked out front. After choosing rooms in very orderly, Germanic fashion, we headed to the center of town to start the walking tour. The streets were packed with tourists and soccer fans. The German Soccer (Bundesliga) Championship Game between Dortmund and Bayern München was being played that evening in Berlin. The Dortmund fans wore Black and Yellow jerseys and the München fans Red and Blue. The three-hour free Sandeman Tour started at the Brandenburg Gate. Our guide was Franziska Storr. She actually gave up practicing law to become a tour guide. Made sense since she was quite a people person. This city has withstood the most incredible evils in recent history: The Nazis wiped out Democracy, disallowed independent thinking and began purging non-Aryans starting in 1933 The Wall was built in 1961 in one night and came down in 1989 And this history, with its pain so fresh, is embedded everywhere: statues, parks, buildings. AND remnants of the wall are still standing in many places — left in memory. This graffiti says it all. Madness indeed. Berlin’s painful history is not evidenced at the Hotel Aldon where Michael Jackson famously dangled his baby over the balcony. The Presidential Suite, at the “best flexible” rate, goes for the ungodly sum of €15,750 ($21,418) per night! Hello! The traffic lights are delightful. They were originally only in East Berlin, but became so beloved, they have become iconic. They are known as Ampelmännchen, which is German for little traffic light man. We toured the Memorial to the Murdered Jews. It is a thought provoking exhibit made up of huge concrete towers of all sizes. The architect never explained what he meant by it, leaving it up to the viewer to decide. It cost €27,000,000 to construct. Underground at this site is The Holocaust Memorial, in which you can hear a pin drop…or should I say, tears fall. There is much personal accounting of the horrors Hitler’s policies unleashed. Here are two of the things I read: one from a note recovered in a concentration camp, the other a summary of just one family’s journey. Next stop was Checkpoint Charlie, which, it turns out is well-known by the locals as a high-priced tourist trap. Near the end of the tour, and after hearing about Berlin’s sordid past, Franziska said “Now to something a bit more cheerful. Let’s see where Hitler shot himself in 1945.” A parking lot is built over the bunker where he and Eva Braun committed suicide – no monument there. We ate at a local Thai restaurant across from the apartment. There were many restaurants to choose from in the neighborhood. We then went to the beer garden across the street and watched some of the soccer match on the big screen TV with the German fans. The game went to over time with Bayern München winning so the Dortmund fans were pretty somber. Sunday, May 18 We toured of the Reichstag, a German version of the U.S. Congress. After passing through security, we met our Tour Guide, In May of 1945, the building was captured by Russian soldiers who wrote all over the walls. There are photos of the soldiers standing on ladders or the shoulders of comrades writing on the walls. The Germans have preserved these writings. Since nothing was in session, we actually got to go into the chambers where the members debate and vote. She wasn’t in today. But, according to the guide, she lives quite modestly in a local apartment. Those practical Germans! We then made our way up the spiral walkway in the famous glass dome atop the building. We had audio recorders that described what we were seeing as we walked up. Outside the entrance to the Reichstag was a monument in memory of 96 members of the Reichstag (Parliament) of the Weimar Republic who were murdered by National Socialists. We went to Typography of Terror Museum, which details the rise of the Nazis and the termination of the Jews. I was topped up with sadness, so only read some of the exhibits outside. We opted to move on. At this point, the lush green forests of the Tiergarten sounded appealing. This giant park, in the middle of Berlin, measures about one square mile, and has 14 miles of pathways. We walked down the main avenue which was lined with vendors and food tents because of a huge bicycle race that was being held – as in 15,000 bikes huge. Unfortunately, the intermittent rain, meant sparse crowds. From the top of the Victory Column located in the center of the park, we could watch the bicyclists coming around different streets through the park. A fellow spectator lamented “Many riders, not so many spectators.” We ended up at Hauptbahnhof, Berlin’s Central Station. It is almost like an airport with all kinds of shops and restaurants on different levels. International and local trains, subways, and buses connect there. Very impressive. Right across from the station along the waterway, we saw people gathered along the water’s edge. Never did figure out what they were watching…a race? It was very inviting and picturesque, but we were on our way home, so there was no turning back to explore. We returned to the apartment and then headed out to hear this sweet guitar player sing in the park right across from us. And we never could figure out what this fellow was doing lying on the sidewalk next to his bike, bundled up in motorcycle leather. We sought treasures in the HUGE flea market in the park. No luck. Buncha junk! Never quite understood what this ad was about or for. But I got a kick out of it. Also in the park was a very lively, dusty dog park. Lots of romping, playing, chasing and humping. Monday, May 19th Today was Pergamon Museum day. We found it on Museum Island. Upon arrival, I was most amused and encouraged by this bird. I hoped he was a good omen. The critter certainly wasn’t flying anywhere. The Pergamon contained excavated Roman altars and friezes discovered in Turkey and brought to Berlin in the 1930s. The museum survived the bombings during WWII. But I have never been so tired in a museum in my life…and it had nothing to do with my clock. The audio recording we carried around was of a woman’s voice alternating with a man’s. It was downright hypnotic. I’m thinking my interest in antiquities of this kind is limited. Berlin is on-the-go. This vista, with seven cranes in view was typical of the horizon. Build, repair, build, repair. We found ourselves in a huge square in front of the Berlin Cathedral. They are putting in a new subway, which has caused some disruption. It was fascinating to see these diagrams of the plans and the massive drill doing the dirty work. We walked through the Alexander Platz and ate dinner at an authentic German restaurant. So authentic, the waitress didn’t even speak English. I ordered what sounded very German, but it turned out to be a couple of brats and BBQ sauce, sauerkraut and soggy french fries. Jack hit the jackpot (so to speak) with his enormous pork something-or-other. One thing was for sure, the German beer was divine! Wow! I hadn’t seen a cigarette machine in forever. I think Germans haven’t yet kicked the evil habit. Our day in Berlin ended watching the sunset from the Reichstag Dome. No clouds, just blinding light. Probably could have passed on this one, especially since it takes much prior planning to get permission to enter the dome. Tuesday, May 20th We wanted to visit our hometown’s namesake’s palace, so we headed to the Charlottenburg Palace. That’s how Mary, with her little lamb, was feeling with all that cruise food and German beer. We took a bus from there to the zoo. We decided German lions, camels, elephants and alligators probably weren’t much different from others we’d seen, so saved our $70 for later. Along the way, through the Tiergarten, we saw many homeless people and tons of graffiti. I wouldn’t have taken this picture, except he appeared to be sound asleep. These walkways were everywhere in Tiergarten. They are beautiful, but talk about labor-intensive. I saw a fellow laying these pieces one-by-one. Not as cost-effective as just pouring concrete, but certainly more beautiful. Never did figure out what this sign meant. It appears to say “No Tanks”. We visited the Kurfürstendamm, the Champs-Élysées of Berlin. In a square nearby, we were entertained by this middle-aged fellow doing stunts on a skateboard. Had Amaru and Paloma, my nephew and niece, been there, they most certainly would have been digging for pennies to press in this machine…or maybe Euros. They’re everywhere, they’re everywhere! Near Kurfürstendamm was the burned out Kaiser Wilhelm church, currently being restored. We returned to Alexanderplatz and saw The Fernsehturm (TV Tower) up close and personal. The Tower is the tallest structure in Germany at 368 meters. It was pricey to go to the top and, reportedly, the restaurant was overpriced, so we only looked UP. In the same plaza, fondly known as Alex, we saw the World Time Clock, which continually rotates showing the time throughout the globe. We finally went into St. Mariankirch (with a statue of Martin Luther outside.) We’d seen this church the day before from the plaza, but were unimpressed. It was built with a variety of bricks and looked a little seedy. But it turned out to be beautiful inside. I don’t think I’ve ever seen an altar quite as ornate as this. Finally, we headed back toward our apartment and visited the Berlin Wall Memorial, which was right down the street. This area is where The Wall first went up. Again, the museum was full of horror stories…which is what it was: A Horror Story. We packed up and took off for the airport. Having missed her at her office, it was nice to see Angela Merkel saying goodbye as we dragged our luggage to the bus.
Travel
Monday, May 12th
Tallinn, Estonia, the first port-of-call is a lovely little city. We were able to walk to the city center where we joined the Free Tour with a group of about 30 travelers.
We passed Fat Margaret, an ancient defensive structure near the dock. I guess they thought a structure of that size would scare off any possible invaders.
Jack and I wondered about whether we’d see someone we knew on the trip. Long odds, yes, but we both believed it possible.
So, no one was surprised when I chased a woman into a tourist shop in Estonia. She looked familiar to me and turned out to be Andrea Doolittle, from Raintree, the country club we belong to in Charlotte! She was on the cruise…among 1,700 other passengers. I saw her only one other time from a distance. So sad I didn’t place a HUGE wager to win on that chance encounter.
Tallinn is small with narrow, winding streets.
Turned out I just missed a Swedish cousin of mine who had been there two days before. He said it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There certainly were enough cobblestone streets in lovely Tallinn to authenticate this.
Our tour guide was Mairi, a native of Tallinn. Here she is in front of a placard commemorating Boris Yeltsin, who was instrumental in granting Estonia their freedom.
In the Middle Ages, Tallinn was divided into two parts: the Toompea with its hilltop castle fortress and the Lower Town inhabited by merchants.
Estonia has managed to retain its charm through Swedish and Soviet rule. Estonia is a small country. And here’s how small it is: Mairi stood next to the President of Estonia at a rock concert, both with a beer in hand.
Tallinn is known for the following:
It is the birthplace of the first public Christmas tree display
Blood sausages are a favorite
They eat something called Kama, consisting of wheat powder, unflavored yogurt and sugar
Their best showing in the Olympics was 24th out of of 29 — but they have a mean fencing team
St. Olaf’s Church is the 3rd highest structure/thing in Tallinn. #1 is the TV tower, #2 some hill.
I shopped unsuccessfully for sweaters at the Sweater Wall. The ones I found were either itchy or felt like products of China…nothing to write home about, OR to take home.
On the way back to the boat, we stopped for a photo op near Fat Margaret.
And Tallinn wasn’t immune to graffiti…either that or that can of spray paint was burning a hole in Jack’s jacket.
We found out the next day a fellow passenger didn’t make it back to the ship. The pilot boat we saw zip up to the side of the boat the night before had to have been delivering him. A British gal told us he was probably was slapped with a huge fine. His bad!
Tuesday, May 13th
Today we visited St. Petersburg, Russia where you either need to be with a guide or apply months in advance for a visa. It was a long day and we needed to turn our clocks forward an hour – we’d sleep tonight!
Mr. Research (Jack) found tours and excursions that were not affiliated with the ship, saving us tons of money. Being lazy doesn’t pay. And that was never truer than in St. Petersburg.
We went on a private tour through T.J. Travel with only 12 travelers. The boat tours were comprised of, what looked like, hundreds. Our tour guide, Alexandra, was a lovely young mother, who really knew the drill.
Historical names: 1712-1918 Petrograd, 1918-1980 Leningrad, 1980-today St. Petersburg. (And a sordid history to accompany all those name changes.)
St. Petersburg is built on 42 islands and has over 500 bridges. There are places where bridges are hoisted all night to let ships pass at will. So, if you’re on that island and party too late, you’re not gonna get home.
Our first stop was to see two sphinx statues and two gold Griffins along the river. Missed the significance, but we were told rubbing the Griffin heads brought good luck.
This good luck paid off for the gal on the tour who left her camera in a gift shop along the way. AND for our driver, Vladim, who masterfully avoided a driver who weaved into our lane.
We paused at The 7-Bridges for a mandatory photo stop.
Saw the Church of St. Nicklas.
Here are a couple of the more impressive, really Russian-looking structures. Don’t remember the names:
And the Waldorf Astoria
I expected to see troops come marching down the street after I saw this huge billboard.
Next stop: The Hermitage. It is totally overwhelming and the crowds were incredible. Our tour guide knew how to snake through the crowds to the quieter rooms.
This is how big it is:
If you spend 30 seconds viewing each piece of art in the Hermitage, you will be there for SEVEN YEARS!!!
As I said before, I’m not too nuts about museums, so two hours of this was about all I could take.
Below are a few of the pieces of art we saw and some of the building.
To be expected, my favorite thing wasn’t the art, it was the bathroom. I must have a discerning eye, because it turned out Gianni Versace was the designer…of the bathrooms!
There were little ladies posted in every room wearing navy suits (military uniforms?) with walkie talkies. We found out that one of the passengers on the boat either didn’t “get” or see this universal “don’t touch” sign so got whacked by an elderly watchdog. His hand was still swollen the next day.
The next surprising, totally delightful, stop was to ride a couple stops on the subway. It is WAAAY underground, under the rivers. The escalators took forever.
And the underground stations are decorated like a grand ballroom. Ornate and clean.
A favorite stop for me was to the Church of the Spilt Blood, probably because of the gory name. It came by the moniker honestly. It was built on the spot where Emperor Alexander II was assassinated in March 1881 when revolutionaries threw a bomb at his royal carriage. It has mosaics outside and inside on the walls, the ceiling and in every nook and cranny.
Off to The Peterhof, Peter The Great’s summer palace.
The grounds were beautiful with tulips in full bloom. The multitude of water fountains are gravity fed, no pumps.
This was my favorite fountain. It sprayed when you walked on the stones a certain way. A couple very brave students took on the challenge and got soaked.
These signs were posted everywhere. That’s a dollar being pulled from the unaware guy’s pocket. Hmmmm, think they’re implying Americans are at all stupid?
Then the rains fell. So we ran to the van and were treated to a very plain-jane, vanilla lunch…but it WAS 3:00, so anything would have sufficed.
Like every good tourist attraction, the last stop was the gift shop. Here I got my only souvenir…some lovely blue Faberge Egg-like drop earrings. Last week, in a hurry, I put on one of those and another similar but different earring. My friends never said a word…thought I was just being artistic. Nah, just scatter brained.
At the gift shop, we just had to take advantage of the free sample of vodka. This must have been snapped BEFORE Kevin’s first sip. Whoa, did that ever burn going down.
My cousin, Jorgen, who we missed in Tallinn, was surprised we even went to St. Petersburg. He heard U.S. ships were avoiding Russia because of the strife between countries. Well, we Americans were a minority on the ship, so Royal Caribbean just didn’t seem to worry.
At this point, we could have opted for a small boat tour. It would have been wonderful to see St. Petersburg at night but it doesn’t get dark until very late that time of year, so we would just see what we saw earlier. So, no thanks, back to the ship.
Thursday, May 15th
After a day at sea, because of having to skip Helsinki due to heavy winds, we docked in Stockholm. These typical Swedish horses greeted us at the port.
We walked and walked and walked in this city. Jack and Lisa spent the day at the Vasa Museum, which houses the most fully intact 17th century warship ever salvaged. This boat, armed with 64 guns and 300 sailors, sank in the harbor on its maiden voyage in 1628.
Since we were meeting another of my Swedish cousins and his girlfriend for lunch, we had limited time. We decided to skip the museum and explore Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s old city. Being museum lovers, Jack and Lisa spent the entire day at the museum. I was happier being a bird out of its cage.
Here are a couple of shots of the lovely old city.
A mere 3 feet wide, Marten Trotzigs Grand is Stockholm’s narrowest street.
We took a boat back to the museum where we met Fredrik and his girlfriend Bee. We had a nice lunch at a breezy outdoor café, blankets on laps.
We got to go to their flat and meet Bee’s 16 year old son, Nitipon. Here is Fredrik, the giant, and tiny Bee.
Goodbye Stockholm
Departing Stockholm, we experienced the most beautiful sail-away of the cruise because of the smooth, spectacular water and picturesque structures along the canal.
Not to mention, this departure was accompanied by the music of Tom the Pyper’s bagpipes for the very last time.
We were headin’ home to Copenhagen.
Next stop: Berlin
Here we be, on the Legend of the Seas.
This section, Part Two, covers the cruise itself, which we loved.
We’ve cruised before, but have never have had so much fun. Several factors prevailed to make this happen.
The cruise director, the maître d’ of ship entertainment, was Topi Ylonen from Finland. He knew how to get things rockin’ and rollin’ at the many events and dance parties held on the boat. Whatever Royal Caribbean pays him isn’t enough. He was masterful.
We had buddies on the ship — Jack and Lisa Hanrahan. During the time onboard, we all did our own things, Kevin putted, I wrote in my journal, Lisa walked the deck and Jack excelled at Trivia. But every night we dined together.
And when we dined we were served by Dario, from Croatia and an assistant, Carolina, from Chile. They were attentive, always pleasant and fun. This picture says it all.
Carolina wore a wedding ring and admitted to me that her husband was on the ship. She wouldn’t tell me who he was, so I searched name tags all week. In a crew of 700, I never found anyone who seemed a likely candidate. The last night she said “don’t you know who it is yet?” and looked at Dario. Right under my nose. Of course. They were so playful together, I should have known.
Our 2nd level cabin was in the bow, so if we hit a ridge, we could kiss all our body parts goodbye. It had a nice big window.
Our very sweet cabin-keeper was Noel from the Philippines. These cruise ships have discovered a unique way to make hitting the cabin at bedtime fun…folded towels.
Everyone got the same folded work of art in their room, but I venture to guess, not everyone got a monkey like ours. Noel cleverly used the rotting banana I saved just in case I got hungry (!?)
First things first: we bought a 5-bottle wine package. THIS is where they make a ton of dough! Our 5 bottles ended up costing $26 each…far cry from our $4.99 fare from Trader Joe’s.
In our explorations on board the first day, we found the gym, various restaurants, entertainment venues, the casino and Tom the Pyper. He played the bagpipes as we pulled out of port. Seems it’s good luck and Tom, a passenger, had his pipes with him.
His location, the 9th deck right outside of the spa, caused problems that first day. Seems the people having massages didn’t care for the music. But when they learned he was there with the Captain’s blessing, there was nothing they could do.
We were some of his biggest fans on the ship. We never missed him. The last night, he showed up in his full regalia.
The very first morning, we sat with a lovely couple from Australia: Gaena and Dave George. Although we tried to finagle having dinner with them later, there was “no table-changing allowed”. So we never managed that. We did have breakfast together a couple times anyway. She works in a private school and he is a school teacher.
The first day, I spotted a fellow carrying a small guitar. He told me it was answer to a mid-life crisis. Although there were many people we never saw on board, he seemed to show up all the time. But he wasn’t a bad penny, he was just Jerry.
On May 11th, our first full day on board, we went to the fancier restaurant to celebrate both Mother’s Day and Kevin’s 64th birthday.
I read a ditty I wrote to the tune of When I’m 64 and gave him two Elizabeth George paperbacks. (She was the marquis author at the writers’ workshop we attended in Eugene, Oregon.)
I didn’t have wrapping paper, so made use of the decorative barf bag from the flight.
We went to the first of many putting contests. There was a sweet putt-putt course on the top deck.
This was located right next to the Climbing Wall, to which none of us ever gave a second thought.
We entered the putt putt competition every single time. Once we won with Jack and Lisa.
Another time with a sweet Danish couple.
But the big individual winner was always Kevin, as demonstrated by his Mark Spitz-ish medals.
Not to be outdone, I entered the Wii Golf competition. Got paired up with Sieki, from Japan, who had never even held a golf club. Didn’t matter…we had fun.
We loved being on the boat. Topi made the dance parties fun with his wonderful singing and dancing.
For the 70’s Disco Inferno Dance Party he was John Travolta-ish with an afro and white zoot suit.
That night, he was accompanied by the Legendary Macho Men
I danced up a storm.
Another night it was Topi and the Top Dogs. A 50’s & 60’s Rock n’ Roll Dance Party
And, just before St. Petersburg, Russia, we rocked at a White Russian Dance Party.
These two cuties entertained all with their swirling and kissing.
They held a Parade of Flags to celebrate the International crew. Seventy-seven countries were represented.
There was also passenger singing…as in Karoke. Lisa and Jack were brave taking on a difficult rendition of Somebody I Used To Know
From time to time, the staff also got into the act…of course, on command. But it made for great pandemonium and liveliness in the dining room.
Here are the shakers and movers on stage the last night. If the staff wasn’t having fun, they were good actors.
Day five we were supposed to travel overnight from St. Petersburg arriving in Helsinki at 9:00 or so. Kevin woke up and was surprised we were already in port, since we could see the dock.
Un uh, we were still in Russia. Yikes! All the talk and speculation at breakfast was we were being held hostage since the US-Russian relations were so tenuous. In fact, a Swedish cousin of mine was surprised we were even going to Russia.
But it was just bad weather. In fact, pilot boats had to sit on both sides of the ship to keep it from banging into the dock. We were oblivious, sleeping through the whole event.
The shows were amazing. We saw:
String Fever play electric violins.
The Russian Military Folkloric Ensemble from St. Petersburg, Russia
Other dancers and musicians performed throughout the week.
But our favorite was Soul Satisfaction who sang a mean Motown.
Once on stage, one of the players said, “We were waiting on the dock at Helsinki. Where were you?” They were supposed to board in Helsinki but ended up joining us in Stockholm.
There was a Cirque De Soleil-type show that performed in the 9-story Centrum. But I never watched them perform, having just heard the horror story of the eight aerialists who fell, while hanging by their hair. No thanks!
Here we are on “Formal Night”
…and look what else showed up! Usually, there were at least a couple ships in view. The beautiful Baltic is busy!!
Cruises are an easy way to cover lots of ground, so we decided to float around the Baltic and visit six major cities. It was an efficient way to cover lots of ground and was cost efficient too, considering the weakness of the dollar vs. the Krone, Krona, Euro and Ruble.
We also decided to add a couple days in Copenhagen before the cruise and in Berlin post-cruise. Therefore, I plan to write four separate blog posts: Part 1 covers Copenhagen, Part 2 The Cruise Part 3 Estonia, Sweden and Russia and Part 4 Berlin.
We settled on Royal Caribbean, sailing May 10th, 2014.
We took this trip with Lisa and Jack Hanrahan.
I used to work with Jack at Leo Burnett, so we’ve been friends for years. It turned out to be a perfect match. We did lots of touring together, but they enjoyed museums – I prefer anything but. We would always meet for dinner to compare notes.
Jack was an intrepid planner (that’s what we were after all: Media Planners) which made for a well laid out trip. He also loves figuring out public transportation. We took a taxi only once. It was all trains, subways and buses. We were part of the fabric of each town we visited plus we saved a bunch of money…gobs actually. Without his penchant, I might not have been as adventurous.
Although we ate like sailors — this WAS a cruise after all — we shouldn’t have worried our little heads. We actually lost weight. No surprise. Lisa’s Fitbit calculated that we walked almost 90 miles! I didn’t leave Europe with a heavy heart…it was with tired gams.
I took 927 photos, but only have just about 300 total in each of the three recaps. I’ve minimized your exposure to the many buildings, cathedrals and parks we saw. Once home, I couldn’t tell them apart. They start to all look alike.
Buckle your seatbelt, the trip begins!!
Thursday, May 8, 2014
SAS takes 90% off the price of a ticket for babies. Need I say more? There was a young’un near us to the right and one a couple rows behind…stereo bawling, all night long.
After meeting up with Lisa and Jack in the airport, we caught a train right outside the door.
It was empty, smooth and silent…the first of our many heavenly trips on public transportation.
After booking the cruise and flight, we THEN started looking for accommodations in Copenhagen. We had decided to go early to adjust our clocks and have time to explore the city. There was a dearth of hotel rooms — the only ones we could find were in the $600/night range.
Turned out the finals for Eurovision, a giant musical event, were taking place in Copenhagen that very weekend. In retrospect and given the enormity of the event, I’m amazed no one we’ve mentioned this to has ever heard of Eurovision.
Thirty-seven European countries hold their own contests and then send finalists to Eurovision to participate in two semifinal and one final round. The winning country becomes the host for the next year. Abba became famous after winning this completion.
This year’s competition was very controversial. On the boat we were able to watch the final 26 acts perform and the voting. The contestant from Austria was a lithe fellow, clad in a bejeweled gown. He had long painted nails, long flowing locks and a beard!
Apparently, a BBC announcer had dissed him/her so there were demonstrations and rallys calling for the announcer’s dismissal. So, the win may have been from sympathy votes. One thing is certain, his win caused great consternation in Russia. How dare they honor a transvestite! Oh so juicy.
Here is a picture of Conchita Wurst winning. Why am I not surprised Lady Gaga has already asked him/her to accompany her?
Want to know more about the competition, which is a happening in Europe? Check out this link:
http://www.eurovision.tv/page/timeline#All
Fortunately we were able to find a reasonable priced two-bedroom apartment through AirBNB. It was easy bus ride north of the center city.
The place we stayed was a 5th floor walk-up…92 steps! No wonder there were chairs on every landing.
Our landlady was the lovely Eva Marie Skytte. Her place was amazingly orderly. (Note the book case behind her arranged by subject AND color!)
She provided massive amounts of information about everything related to her place and the city. There was a huge bunch of tulips to greet us.
If there’s such thing as an A+++++ rating, she’s a deserving candidate.
Our first outing was a boat tour which originated from the heavily-photographed Nyhavn Harbour. Unfortunately, it ended up pouring. This was the worst experience of the whole trip, so in perspective, not so bad. We did get a good overview of the city.
We went past the Mærsk headquarters and the relatively new Opera House which is dubbed The Pencil Case, Cowboy, Pumpkin or Toaster. It was funded by Mærsk Mc-Kinney Møller, the founder of Mærsk Shipping and the richest man in Denmark. Some say the Opera House looks like the flag of the tax-evading, hippy village located across the water from Maersk Headquarters, so is a one-fingered salute to Mueller.
We saw the massive warehouse where the Eurovision finals were being held. Originally, I toyed with the idea of going. But the very pricey tickets were sold-out.
We walked along the longest pedestrian shopping area in Europe, known as Stroget. Because of Eurovision, it was especially lively, with various stages set up so everyone could sample some of the music.
There were these dudes to keep the peace.
These three little lads crooned in blended harmony. They got my change from lunch.
I thought this was brilliant. A hip clothing store set up chairs in front of their display windows, had recorded music blaring and served beer — drew quite the crowd.
A photo I sadly missed was of a display window with live mannequins. They were having fun waving at passersby (me).
At five o’clock, they were scheduled to have the Guinness World Record Longest Kissing Chain (in an effort to kiss prejudice goodbye) on the Stroget. The idea of staying to participate was vetoed by majority vote. But Kevin and Lisa did take a crack at it.
Having stepped on countless Lego pieces as Brian grew up, their flagship store was a must stop.
We saw Tivoli Gardens, the very first amusement park. It opened in 1843. Didn’t look like too much was happening, so may not have even been open.
At the corner across from this government building, a fellow on a bike waiting to cross the street was staring at me and smiling. Finally I asked him what his problem was. It sounded like he said “you are ugly” and waved at his mouth as he smiled more broadly. Lisa was floored and I started laughing. Either a nut or he got his English wrong.
We found out the next day that he was saying I was “hygge leit” (pronounced hooglee). It is an overused expression in Danish that means “cozy” or “gives a warm feeling”. I’m not sure why, but the whole experience really tickled me. I can still see his earnest face.
Back to the apartment to this view out the front windows.
We did a little grocery shopping but were intrigued by a small shop selling fresh-made Italian food. We stopped in and bought lasagna from a little old guy named “Mr. Terrible”. True to his name, the lasagna was indeed terrible. Turns out in Denmark it’s an insult to the cook to salt food, so they make sure there’s plenty in it during prep. ICK! We could hardly eat it.
The next day we took a free tour. These were offered in Copenhagen, Tallinn, Stockholm and Berlin. The strategy behind this business model is that the guides work hard for the tips, which are their only income. These tours ranged from 2-3 hours in length and were wonderful. Our guide in Copenhagen was Jane, an Irish citizen and immigrant from New Zealand. She was a treasure trove of information.
Because this blog post is partly so we can remember our trip and some of the interesting facts gathered along the way, I have put that learning in italics. Read only if you’re interested in finding out more about Copenhagen.
Taxes range from 44 to 77% in Denmark. Pays for everyone’s education and medical care.
There is a 200% excise tax on cars and motorcycles.
It is the happiest country in the world (according to who?) but has the highest divorce rate.
Although Denmark was a founding member of the EU it doesn’t use the Euro. Although, the Krone is tied to the Euro.
Helle Thorning-Schmidt is the Prime Minister. No one in the group knew her name. But, she was famous at one point when she took a selfy with Barack and David Cameron – Michelle glaring in the background. She is married to the son of a well-known UK politician.
Their beloved Queen Margrethe II is an over-achiever with three degrees and the ability to speak in five languages. Her son is Crown Prince Fredrik. His very down-to-earth wife, Mary, has charmed the nation. Their five children, including twin 4 year olds, attend public schools.
The Danes are progressive. The eldest CHILD gets the throne, not the eldest son.
We got to see the changing of the guards at the royal palace. These are the elite among Danish forces. They look 16 years old to me.
Many Danes no longer go to church, which is why many of the building have been converted to other uses. There was a sign at the entrance of this church saying “I am not a church anymore. I am a museum.”
The major literary Danish hero is Hans Christian Andersen. Orphaned at seven, he begged to join the ballet as an actor. After repeated attempts, and no acting skill, he became a singer until his voice changed. He continued to hang around the theater where the manager heard him telling stories to the younger boys. Therein began his career. Apparently though, his original stories were quite violent…blood and gore and tragedy. What fun!
At the famous Nyhavn Harbour the buildings were houses of prostitution. In the 60’s, to drive out the prostitutes so the harbor could become a tourist attraction, the city dolled up the buildings by painting them the current colors. This alone didn’t work, so they decided to place picturesque ships in the port. Before that could happen they had to clean out the several feet-deep pile of empty bottles, wallets and similar detritus on the bottom of the harbor. The strategy worked so well, the tall-masted sailboats have resided in the harbor ever since.
The most expensive beer you can buy in Copenhagen is at that tourist-trap harbor. Our tour guide suggested just buying a six-pack and a bag of chips and sitting on a bench near the harbor. Seems there’s no law against public alcohol consumption.
The number one restaurant in the world is in Copenhagen: Noma. It has a five month waiting list. Although they serve 20 courses, Jane told us one of her customers told her he they left hungry. It had to be all about the presentation.
We did learn a bit of Danish history along the way. In Berlin, it was all you heard about — their past was indeed sordid. The Danes managed to save thousands of Jewish lives during the war. Of 8,000 Jews living in Denmark, only 42 died. There is a movie about Christian the 10th who was instrumental in this feat starring Pierce Brosnan. I’d put it on the Netflix list if only I could find it. Never got the name.
At the end of the tour, and armed with suggestions from Jane, we took off to explore more of Copenhagen.
We walked to the underwhelming Little Mermaid statue…there she is sitting on my head.
At the water, was one of the more beautiful places of worship we saw on our trip, St. Albans Anglican Church.
First we smelled them, then they towered over us. It was spring in Denmark and the lilacs were in full bloom.
The Danes have design in mind with most public installations and they love public art. I found this Thinker fascinating and fun.
On display was this mine. Brian thought it was one designed to blow up ships. Yikes!
People partied everywhere. This party bus pulled up and people piled out accompanied by loud music. Musta been Eurovision happenings.
There weren’t many homeless people on the streets. The couple we did see had prominent signs promising to do any work available. Seemed like a very Danish way to not beg while begging.
In all the European cities we visited, biking was huge. In addition to a sidewalk, there was a one-way bike lane, heading the direction of street traffic. If you mistakenly walked on that part of the pavement, you ran the risk of being run over. It didn’t take long to figure out where to walk.
In the center of town, much of which is under construction, they put up a wall with plastic boards you can flip to spell out messages. Wish I could have read what they said.
We found the Round Tower Jane had recommended and it was well worth the 4 krone each to climb up for a panoramic view of the whole city.
On the way down from the top of the Round Tower, we stopped in to see an exhibit about hats. Who would ever know it could be so interesting? In fact, I’m going to contact our Museum of Modern Art about bringing the exhibit to Charlotte. I went a little crazy with the camera here because I loved this display. I hope you enjoy the following photos of costumes from the Royal Theater, various kinds of hats, creative hats of all kinds and Kevin modeling a couple in the “try one on” room.
From the top of the tower, we saw where the National Museum of Art was located. Jane recommended checking out their Free Friday Night event with music, dancing, drink and nibbles. Jackpot! The front of the museum was the old building. There was a new building on the back. This is where the music was performed (which we just missed) It was Queer Tango Night (their term). Queer of every flavor danced the Tango. Splendid fun!
We peeled off to see some of the exhibits. I love modern art…but some of this was over the top. See some of the works below, including the giant turd. My father would have had no patience for that.
Easy to catch the bus — not so easy to get into the building since we didn’t have a key and the buzzer from the ground floor didn’t work. This could have been a big problem since we didn’t have phones. But neighbors on the second level buzzed us in. Not understanding our explanations as we passed them at their door, they glared at us as we made our way up to the fifth floor. Catastrophe dodged!
Saturday, May 10th
Eva Marie delivered sweet rolls and walked to the grocery store with me so I could buy the two bottles of wine we were allowed to bring on board. Along the way, I told her I thought the candidate, Nicolai Poulsen, was particularly appealing.
She said he was awful, wanting to demolish social programs. These posters were all over town on lamp posts. I’m thinking this cute guy was probably a radical!
AS a last kind gesture, she delivered us to the boat in the larger car she had borrowed from her sister. Didn’t I say she deserved an A++++?
Of all the cities we visited, I loved Copenhagen the most. It was probably a combination of the generosity and kindness of Eva Marie, the energy of Eurovision, the lovely, helpful people we met everywhere…and the fellow who told me I was “oooglee”.
A Dual-Purpose Trip: To visit the Palma Family and attend The Eugene Wordcrafters Fiction Writer’s Conference
Tuesday March 4, 2014
Easy flight but long. Meghan Danahey, a local weather forecaster, was on our first flight merrily basking in celebrity attention. Made me think of my buddy, Diane, who got her start as a weather girl in Lansing, Michigan. But her celebrity was tainted by having to endure her very own talking bird. One of Jim Gross, the station owner’s, worst ideas ever.
We ran like mad people to make the connection in Dallas. During our run we saw this mighty friendly Texas hello.
Our smiley and spirited Budget Rent-a-Car clerk was excited to tell us places to explore. We got a Ford Escape (SUV) for a slight upcharge, the perfect vehicle for Or’gun.
After floating around Portland a bit, we found the condo. I’d forgotten the AirBNB landlord’s instructions about where to find the key, so we were very fortunate that they answered their phone when we were trying to figure it all out.
We strolled around the very dead downtown area, and at 10:30 ended up at Wild Wings. The very place Melissa’s father, my brother-in-law, watched Michigan basketball just weeks prior.
Wednesday March 5th, 2014
We met my niece, Melissa and her two kids, Amaru ten and Paloma eight, at Mother’s Bistro for a late breakfast. http://www.mothersbistro.com/ It was a fantastic, cozy old place with multiple chandeliers overhead. Amaru got a funny face pancake. He must have liked pancake man too much – maybe ate an ear, but that was all.
We took them back to the condo so we could stash their car in our spot and then we headed out along the Columbia River Gorge — so big, like a long flowing lake — to see the Multnomah Falls. They are the second tallest in the U.S. Didn’t ask what the tallest was…Niagra?
Before reaching the giant falls, Kevin, Paloma and I took a little hike on a trail next to the road after stopping to see the smaller Wahkeena waterfall.
We slipped on mud and snow getting shoes soaked in puddles. Fun!
At Multnomah we met sweet Gareth Wilson, volunteer of the year who told us all about the area and the falls. I think he was also probably the longest-serving volunteer — he looked to be in his 80’s. http://www.oregon.com/Hike_Multnomah_Falls
After making our way up to the midpoint and back down in the blowing rain, we found refuge in the gift shop, where yet another squished penny was purchased for 50 cents. What a racket!
On the way back we stopped at The Vista House. http://vistahouse.com/ A vista-less vista because of all the fog. Dancin’ fools at the Vista House.
Yea, another gift shop. No pennies this time.
We ended our time with the Palmas at OMSI, The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry. It is a sprawling place full of wonder. Great Uncle Kevin fulfilled Paloma’s dream of going into the submarine. Not sure it was what she expected, but she’d been unable to coax anyone else in her family to go. What would you call this look? Befuddled?
Our favorite exhibit was the infra red imaging, where warm places on your body glow yellow and cold spots are black. I was the only one among us with a black nose. Had to be all the sun damage repair. Melissa and I had very hot crotches, which really cracked us up!
There is a beautiful new bridge going up over the Willamette River that goes thru Portland. It will be for public transport, bikers and walkers only.
That night we dined at Peacock, a wonderful Asian restaurant. Kids were fencing with each other using chop sticks until we distracted them with tic-tac-toe and a drawing game.
After dinner we went to Powell’s Bookstore – a true wonder of the publishing world. It takes up a full city block and has many checkout counters. Does a book-lovers heart good. http://www.powells.com/
Paloma had a Gap Kids gift card burning a hole in her pocket so Kevin kindly waited for us as went into the mall, found the store and tried to decide. So many choices!
They took off and we enjoyed lovely Portland from our condo window.
Thursday March 6, 2014
We wanted to experience a little more of Portland, so headed to the Visitor’s Center to see what we could do in a morning. The gal there was most enthusiastic giving us a map of martini road, and one for the breweries. So many choices.
This is a famous old part of the downtown. Note the wet streets. Note that most of the photos are wet. It’s wet there.
I went into the bathroom at the Visitor’s Center and saw one of the things Portland is famous for…its homeless. There were about five women, 30 to 60 brushing their teeth, combing their hair, and rolling up their sleeping bags.
I used the bathroom for the intended purpose and when I sat down saw the possessions of the gal in the stall next to me on the floor in front of her feet. On top of these things sat a little brown dog; probably a Chihuahua.
“Hi, little guy,” I said.
“Who are you? Do I know you?” the woman sitting on the throne next to me said.
“No, I don’t know you. I’m a visitor. But you have such a cute dog. I was just saying hello.”
“She’s my best friend.” The woman didn’t say it, she moaned it.
How easily I could be her. How easily she could be me. I never did get to meet her face to face but sitting next to her gave me pause — and made me grateful for my life. Life’s a crap shoot really, and I just got the lucky roll.
Rainy and cold, we decided to check out one of Portland’s most famous places of residence, the Pittock Mansion.
It was closed, but we had all our luggage so I would have been nervous to go inside for a tour after seeing this very ominous sign in the parking lot.
I was just as glad to look at the outside of this palace. We’d just seen the Flagler Museum in Palm Beach…so really had it up to here with opulence. Next move: downstate to Eugene.
We headed south on Highway 5 but decided to take a little scenic route on #214 along the way. Taking this jaunt, we passed through a couple villages, to get the flavor of small-town life in Or’gun.
First stop was Woodburn, a sorry little town. It felt like we were just north of our southern border. You want Hispanic food? Woodburn is the place.
Although small, there were many cars parked along the road into town. It looked like the whole town was in attendance at a burial-under-umbrella.
Next stop was Mt. Angel famous for its giant glockenspiel.
Finally, we stopped in Silverton. It was one thin dime for 24 minutes – actually all we needed to see the town. And to make sure we actually deposited that coin there was a parking fellow lurking across the street. Silverton is charming. Their claim to fame is the 24 gigantic murals positioned around the town.
http://www.silvertonchamber.org/pages/murals
One is of a hometown hero, Don Pettit, an astronaut who was on the space station when the Challenger went down.
Another was of Bobbie, The Wonderdog. Actually, there was much to-do about this little guy who lived in the 1920’s. He made his way back from Indiana to Silverton when he got separated from his owners. Another hometown hero.
I think I’m going to need to use the name of this Silverton lawyer in some future story…priceless!
There is a rushing river going right through town and under the oldest covered bridge in the state – a must see.
Even though it was rainy, we knew it was spring because the fields were full of baby lambies and their moms…the very green fields, that is.
On the way out of town, we gassed up the car, or should I say HE did. There are only two states that mandate gas pump attendants, New Jersey and Or’gun. NJ because people drive off without paying, Or’gun because folks there need jobs. This fellow got a kick out of me taking his picture. I was amazed that neither he nor his colleague (yes, there were two gas attendants!) had ever heard of Silverton’s hero dog, Bobbie.
We got to Eugene just in time for the opening reception of the writer’s conference I was attending. A bunch of really nice people. Seems writers are always nice people. We ended the day at the most over-priced restaurant in town. What did we know?
We wondered what the ear plugs were for on our night stands. Around 4:00 in the morning the train went by…right under our noses. Worst part is the horn blew the entire length of Eugene. Townsfolk told us this policy is very controversial and always on the table. So far the horn is winning.
Friday March 7, 2014
The writing conference was great with sessions all day long, including over lunch. It was the first time they had put on this conference, so the attendance was low at about 100 people. However, because of that, it was easy to meet people — nice people.
We had a break after the sessions and took a long hike thru lush underbrush and trees up one of the buttes surrounding the downtown. Beautiful views.
We went with a small group on a wine tasting mission. Next visit, the wineries themselves!
That night was The Introvert’s Ball. These nice people also know how to kick up their heels. We danced the night away!
Saturday March 8, 2014
Kevin volunteered to help at the conference and was a big hit with crime writers once they learned about his background. Diana Rodgers even invited him to attend “The Criminal Mind” session she taught.
But this morning he had other plans. Paloma’s ballet class was on his plate. What a grand Great Uncle!
After another wonderful day of learning the craft of fiction writing, the Palma’s joined us to hear the speaker and witness the young writers’ awards ceremony. Maybe Paloma and Amaru can enter and win next year!
We went out to a great place for dinner. It was Poppi’s, a Greek-Indian fusion restaurant. New concept. So Or’gun!
Kevin and I ended the night in the bar with some new, very nice writer pals.
Sunday March 9, 2014
Wouldn’t you know it we sprung forward overnight, so the 8:00 a.m. session was really 7:00 a.m. in our souls. Tough after closing the bar the night before.
There was a closing brunch which was especially lively since, by then we knew a slew of people.
One fellow even invited us to stay with him the next time we’re in Eugene. Talk about red carpet!
They held a 6-word story contest, which is right up my alley. Although my entries didn’t win, the thirteen 6-word stories I had written using the presenters’ names were read aloud prompting great hilarity. Like for Eric Wichey, who by his own admission takes Ritalin: “Is Eric twitchy? No just hyperactive.” For one of the headliners, Elizabeth George: “Her name, his name, Elizabeth George.”
Business cards exchanged and hugs all around, we were off. This photo is of the headliners holding a sign that says “Will Write For Food”: Elizabeth Engstrom, Terry Brooks, Elizabeth George, Susan Wiggs.
We went to the Palma’s lovely home in the hills and roused them. (It WAS a lazy Sunday morning, after all.) Across from their home is a stand of trees covered in moss, so their trees are green in the summer AND the winter. But if you are allergic to moss, watch out!
Got to see Mr. Lego’s latest projects.
We went to Yummi Bowls for a small lunch and then headed to the Eugene Library to hear Terry Brooks, one of the celebrity authors from the conference. He writes Young Adult Fantasy and has had over 25 best-selling books.
What better place to spend a chilly Sunday afternoon than the natural hot springs? We drove about an hour and then spent another hour lolling in the minerals. There is a screen over where the water comes up from the ground to prevent anyone from burning themselves on the water boiled by the molten rocks below.http://www.belknaphotsprings.com/
Quiz: Who’s hammin’ it up in this photo?
Back to the Palma ranch where the kids fixed us a taco dinner. Divine!
We went to The Sweet Life Patisserie, a dessert bakery in town. This sign made me think of Portlandia:
Our selections were way too big and way too rich, but all were luscious. I gave Paloma her birthday poem/riddle/skirt. Not a home run…but now I remember not appreciating clothes as a gift when I was a kid. Paloma was as gracious as an eight year old can be.
After the early wake up, busy day, hot springs and hearty meal, and in anticipation of our coastal journey the next day, we hit the sack early. (But not before I saw a strange contraption around the base of their toilet: a Squatty Potty. Read all about it here: http://www.squattypotty.com)
Monday, March 10, 2014
Our last day in Or’gun. We piled into two cars and headed out to the coast. Here’s a picture of the it-seems-like-they’re-always-laughing Palma family in front of their home before we took off.
Luckily, we had Rodolfo riding with us so we were able to hear all about his job. I never knew exactly what he did, so spending this time with him was excellent.
We saw all these orchards along the way, and of course I thought they were fruit trees.
Not so, unless Hazel Nuts are considered fruit. Big crop. So is Lavender. Probably also big business. Although I really don’t like the lavender infused cloths they pass out at the end of Yoga, it seems many do.
There are these amazingly tilted trees all along the coastline. It’s like they’ve been blown with a hairdryer.
We drove through Yachats (pronounced ya-hots) and then stopped at the Heceta Head Lighthouse.
Heceta is the most photographed lighthouse in the U.S. Folks at the Portland Visitor’s Center told us it showed up on a calendar of lighthouses in Maine…but was replaced in reprintings after a gentle cease and desist please, order.
The littlest one, who hadn’t eaten breakfast, had a meltdown…a regular occurrence for me when my tummy’s growling. So we found The Drift Inn, a restaurant with lots of history, and grabbed a bite, in the nick of time.
After this meal we parted ways. They headed back for Paloma’s hip hop class, we back to Portland.
We passed by Seal Rock at low tide so saw them looming. Apparently, at high tide, they are just small islands. It’s all about the timing.
Melissa told us about the sneaker waves. Sneaker Waves? These are rogue waves that come up without warning and can drag unsuspecting waders into the water. Since the water is freezing and the coastline rocky, those grabbed seldom have a chance.
Melissa met the mother of a teenager who died when caught up in one.
The Palmas always have one member on the lookout for these waves while they’re on the beach. To me, they’re more like Evil Sneaky Waves.
And, please be on the lookout for Tsumnami debris.
We went to the Yaquina Head Lighthouse, which is a National Park http://www.yaquinalights.org/
The ranger at the check in point talked us into buying a forever senior pass. Oh all right, we qualify, so fine!
Here’s the lighthouse and a keeper, if I ever saw one.
There we found tide pools filled with colorful starfish and anemone.
The beach is covered in these perfectly round little rocks. Lotsa wave crashing going on at the Or’gun coast.
We saw many other critters along the way. This stately guy:
A Banana slug:
Sea Lions (or are they Seals?):
More Yaquita Lighthouse views:
After enjoying the Or’gun coast we headed back inland and then up to Portland. When we went through Corvallis, we passed by a golf course with nearly iridescent green fairways. No wonder some of the most sought-after golf courses are located here. But, we did wonder if they give rainchecks in Oregon. Maybe not. They might lose their shirts.
I know Or’gun is a progressive state, but I was amazed — they even have a Bi-Mart.
In Portland we went to an area a gal at the Visitor’s Center clued us in on. It’s Restaurant Row on 21st Street. So many eateries we couldn’t decide. We stopped a couple on the street and they raved about Kell’s Pub. Sounded good…nearly St. Patrick’s Day anyway, so that was where we landed for our last Or’gun meal. Not disappointed.
Tuesday, March 11, 2014
Got to the airport way too early, so no pressure. We finally saw Mt. Hood as we flew above the clouds departing from Or’gun. Magnificent!
We’ll be back!
Last year, our January trip to Florida consisted of one week at a Marriott and the rest of the time on, what my dear brother calls, The Moocher March.
Well this year, we minimized the Moocher part by securing three different Marriott Vacation club condos; one in Riviera Beach (near West Palm), one in Orlando and the final one on Marco Island, just south of Naples.
(Incidentally, every time I hear the word “Orlando” I want to sing out “ORLANDO” the way Elder Price did in the musical The Book of Mormon. If you’ve seen it, you can relate, if you haven’t, be sure you do.)
I’ll try not to bore you in the blog post…reading what we did every day and what we ate can be very boring. That is, unless, of course, the activity was grand fun and the meal delicious. Don’t think you’ll be totally spared when this is the case.
Some pretty zany things took place during the trip. Those are in italics at the bottom of this blog post, should you care to indulge.
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WEDNESDAY, JANURY 8th
Our first stop was to drop Harlem, Cailin’s cat who has lived with us for three years, with Brian. We are so lucky he agrees to this. Not sure what we’d do otherwise. I even took the bird feeder we suspend in front of our window to put outside his window (kitty TV).
She is one spoiled cat. (In fact, she’s lying on my desk right this minute as I type this. What a life!)
THURSDAY, JANUARY 9TH
We arrived at Donna and Wally Jawor’s home in Ponte Vedra, Florida, around 4:00. Donna is my big sister from Alpha Delta Pi days at Michigan State. We calculated that we’ve known each other well over 40 years. How’s that for a friendship with longevity?
After appetizers, we went out for a jolly gathering and had surf & turf (had to mention this one…it was delicious) at Pussers. Eleven of us shouted to each other over the loud dining room din. One highlight of the meal was a refresher course from Tony about how to make a bra using a dinner napkin.
Not to be outdone, someone showed off their skills at napkin-folding by making a peasant cap…shown off here by the lovely Helen and Daniele.
FRIDAY, JANUARY 10TH
We then headed south to Riviera Beach to a 15 floor Marriott Vacation Club (heretofore noted as MVC). Note: We stayed at three different Marriotts, in 2-bedroom units. Luxury lap, for sure. In Riviera Beach, the balcony positioned on the side, afforded us views of both the ocean and the intercoastal waterway. Beautiful!
We dumped our belongings and, since we had a full equipped kitchen, off to Publix we went. Along the beach area, space is limited, so Publix creatively installed this mechanism to raise grocery carts from the store to the parking lot above the store.
We then learned how very lucky we were. Just the day before it had rained dinosaurs and rhinos…I mean, like 17 inches. It was as much as 24 in some spots. Timing.
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SATURDAY, JANUARY 11TH
To, in part, make up for our Moocher March the previous year, we invited friends to stay with us at our condos, which were all two-bedroom units.
First to visit were Mary and Jim DeAngelo, friends who recently relocated from Charlotte to Naples. We ingested way too many delicious appetizers but still managed to eat dinner. As one would expect, we did a lot of eating on this trip…more than a body needs, that’s for sure.
We had one of the most delightful meals of the trip with them at Carmine’s. We got a primo table under a huge awning, overlooking the harbor filled with giant boats, and adjacent to the band and singer. This guy, an Andreas Bottacelli-sound-alike, was indeed a highlight. We later learned that he is a special import by the Carmine family.
See the rosy glow in our eyes? We were havin’ some fun!
We also wondered what could have been in the trunk of this giant, black sedan from New York. Somewhat suspicious, if you ask me.
SUNDAY, JANUARY 12TH
Since Jim and Mary were Charlotte golf buddies, it was fitting that we played with them at Abaco. I had an “on” day but it could have just as easily been “off”. That’s just the game.
Later that afternoon, a huge sail boat that had washed up on shore and was stranded for two days was finally hauled off. This boat with tattered sails, provided great speculative entertainment for everyone.
It turned out the sailor was plucked off the boat by the Coast Guard in rough seas a week earlier and hundreds of miles away. Amazing that it ended up nestled in the sand right in front of the Marriott for our viewing pleasure. There were groups of adults and families with children watching the salvage efforts which took about an hour. Great entertainment!
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MONDAY, JANUARY 13TH
I went to outdoor yoga first thing. The class, surrounded by ocean breezes, took place on very comfortable Astroturf. Yes, it was resort yoga, but not resort yoga. Either Marriott pays well, or there is a plethora of available yoga instructors in Florida. No matter where I was, the Marriott yoga I joined in on was grand.
We needed a dose of nature, so made our way to the John D. MacArthur Beach State Park.
Interesting estuaries and a trail with most of Florida’s fauna noted with signage. I ended up racing through, only glancing at each sign. The rain has awakened the mosquito population, both Minnesota’s and Florida’s actual state bird.
Late afternoon we drove up to Sunrise, Florida to have dinner with an old friend – not old in the aging way, but in the history way. Marina Hernandez was a pal when I worked at J. Walter Thompson. She had transferred from the Caracas, Venezuela office and never left the U.S. Marina even joined my family one Christmas and enjoyed our giant run-around dinner. That’s a friendship-solidifying event if there ever was one.
Anyway, Marina married Dan Sablyak. We met him in Chicago, but had seen neither for 30+ years. Dan has his own business, True North Industries, and manufactures a medical supply system. He was about to meet with one of his biggest and best clients the next morning. Wonder if my crossed fingers that night had a positive effect. We’ve yet to hear. (But then, we haven’t asked.)
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TUESDAY, JANUARY 14th
Next stop was Boynton Beach to golf with Wayne and Pattie Babler, our pals from Bois Blanc Island. It was an easy drive from Riviera Beach. Their club, Delray Dunes, is very nice…no Raintree Country Club. It’s not even ok to put your golf shoes on in the parking lot. You can change your shirt in the parking lot at our club! But it was nice to step up to country club golf in Florida.
This was a game-falls-apart day. But then, they just had 17 inches of rain, so maybe I can blame that. The course had just re-opened and Wayne and Pattie had to stay up all the night it rained to keep golf course mud out of their pool.
After drinks with sweet Sally Sperry, Wayne’s sister, who we also know from Bois Blanc Island, we headed back to the MVC in Riviera Beach. Wayne and Pattie followed us to our digs. We went to a restaurant our friends Chip and Helen recommended, Guanabanas, for some great, overpriced grouper. Best atmosphere award: it was all jungly and we ate outdoors under an umbrella.
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WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 15TH
Although we could have joined a tour led by this very dapper gentleman, Wayne, also dapper and very familiar with West Palm Beach, acted as our guide. We explored the vias just off the fabulous Worth Avenue and, in fact, had a divine lunch at a sweet, outdoor café.
As you can see, the food was delicious…everyone chewing so contentedly.
We took a boat ride around Palm Beach, where the very rich, and very famous live, at least part time.
“That’s where Donald Trump lives. That’s where Warren Buffet lives. That’s where Bernie Madoff used to live.”
Of course, none of us could help noticing that our tour guide, Jack, was missing his left ear. Since, while on the boat I kept thinking of the movie My Left Foot, I was actually relieved that it didn’t occur to me until the next day that he wasn’t One-Eared Jack — get it? One-eyed, One-eared? Oh, I guess I didn’t give you enough credit. Although I’m sure he’s heard it before, that would have been one very embarrassing blurt.
Think we should feel sorry for the owners of this boat? Look closely and you can see the damage from a fire. Someone must’a gotten drunk and didn’t extinguish the candle or something.
A more pedestrian houseboat.
Here we are, all bundled up, enjoying a brisk January day.
Back to the ranch to clean up before going out for a bite. Only this time, it was an amazing bite at Taboo, one of the most popular restaurants on Worth Avenue.
I fully expected the likes of Robert Redford or Bill Gates to walk in. No luck. Only problem was that they cooked my tuna…I had to have them replace my $37 (!) piece of fish with one that was more rare. Chef didn’t get the memo that I like my tuna practically flapping on the plate.
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THURSDAY, JANUARY 16TH
Longing for exercise to work off all those meals, we threw our bikes on the car and headed out to Palm Beach, so we could see the hedges up close.
Henry Flagler, the man who developed the area (and actually was probably the #1 son of Florida) decided a walkway around the swanky residential area would be the bomb. So we first rode into the wind and then with it at our backs, while peeking at pools, gardens and statues. It was a bright and brisk day.
We ended up at the Palm Beach Publix. It’s the only grocery store I’ve ever seen with valet parking. Oh yea, that’s right, Wayne, Donald and, ust’a be, Bernie live here.
Since it was our last night at this lovely resort, we wrapped up in towels and headed down to the hot tub. So inviting were the sounds of the outdoor lounge singer, that, even though draped in wet towels, we joined the crowd for a glass of wine.
As usual, the Marriott crowd was ultra friendly. One fellow, a chiropractor from Port Huron, Michigan, bought a box of chocolates for a couple quite elderly ladies. These ladies started passing out the candies, getting to know everyone. Through the typical where-are-you-from conversations we learned that one of the grays was friends with the mother of one of Kevin’s fraternity brothers. Connections make life just way more fun.
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FRIDAY, JANUARY 16th
After an early workout and packing scramble, we headed out to visit the Flagler Museum before heading to Tampa.
This huge, decadent museum, AKA The Whitehall, was the home of Henry Flagler. Almost lost to age and development, it was rescued and, who would’a guessed it, is now very well-endowed by Palm Beaches well-to-do residents. We went on a crowded, but free, docent-led tour. Well worth the investment of our time.
I took the photo below specifically for Brian, who might find this thermostat interesting:
We took Highway 17 back across the state. It changes from divided to two lanes and back all the way across the state taking you through some pretty sad towns…like Zolfo Springs (no offense citizens of ZS.)
Next stop: Karen and John Rabbitt. These dear folks are related in a round-about way…through marriage. John’s blood uncle’s wife is the sister of Kevin’s blood uncle’s wife. Yea, confusing, I know.
We celebrated Karen’s birthday with a luscious meal of stuffed chicken breast and a wonderful fruit-stuffed chocolate cake, prepared by Chef John. He is a keeper. He got her new lines for their boat, thus the rope-bit she’s holding.
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SATURDAY, JANUARY 18th
I thought Tampa’s big Gasparilla Days event (Mardi Gras on water) was that weekend, but I goofed. It was scheduled the following weekend. However, that day the week long events were kicked off by a Children’s Parade.
The parade was sweet with a crush of kids – no teens allowed please.
Our very own Wells Fargo was even represented.
We took a 2-3 hour cruise on Karen and John’s sailboat. It was chilly and sunny with ample wind.
We tried not to disturb two regattas that were taking place in the bay. We enjoyed a splendid cup of white bean and kale chowder.
After another hot tub dip — we love using these at hotels and friend’s houses since we don’t have, and don’t want one — we went to their friend’s house for an amazing dinner. Saw fireworks over Tampa Bay on the way. The chefs, from Brooklyn, prepared a 10+ course feast showing off their culinary skills…and practicing for the launch of their business, “The Pixie and The Scout” ( thepixieandthescout.com )
We were at the right place, at the right time.
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SUNDAY, JANUARY 19th
Thank you Jim and Mary DeAngelo for the wonderful lox you brought to Riviera Beach when you visited. We finally had them on fresh bakery bagels with cream cheese and capers this morning. My favorite meal of all meals.
Off to Orlando (ORLANDO!!) to our next Marriott. This one, The Cypress, was spacious with an inviting comfy L-shaped couch and screened in porch overlooking a large pond.
We finally put our feet up to watch the NFL playoff games. So now we know. It’ll be Denver and Seattle in the Super Bowl in two weeks!
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MONDAY, JANUARY 20th
We slathered on sunscreen and headed out to play golf. We played a very crowded round (it WAS Martin Luther King’s birthday after all) at Hawk’s Landing. We could hardly find parking. The course conditions were abysmal…the greens were actually blacks. We couldn’t believe we paid $107 each. We both had a rough day too but the fellows we were paired up with were just fine.
But, another funny thing happened. Funny to me, anyway. After passing by their wives who yelled “hi” from their balcony, I hollered “I’m the chick they picked up for golf.” Ha, ha, ha. NOT. But, silly me, I didn’t actually realize this until the younger of the two handed me a pamphlet entitled 101 of the Word’s Funniest One Liners.
Buried inside this tri-fold was a message citing hell and damnation for “those coveting another man’s wife”. Oops! I’m thinkin’ that fellow thought ole Mary needed some savin’.
Movin’ on, we drove through the convention area. Traffic was very thick. We sat through numerous traffic lights countless times finally settling on Fish Bone, which was marginally ok.
Don’t even think about parking your own car there. Otherwise, the valets would starve. Every chain restaurant in the U.S. is represented along this strip…and they’re all crowded. Amazing how that happens!
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TUESDAY, JANUARY 21st
The older of the two golfers from the previous day (not the one who handed me the you-need-savin’ brochure) went on and on about all the FREE things to do in Disney, so we decided to take his energetic advice. The weather was breezy and spitting. We drove to the Ft. Wilderness Camp Ground and caught a FREE bus to the lake where we took a FREE boat ride to the FREE monorail that took us to the FREE Polynesian where we had a great lunch…that, unfortunately, wasn’t free.
Our waitress was Ulia from Tallinn, Estonia. When we told her we were visiting there soon, she got a wistful look on her face. I think she probably misses it. Much of the help was from very far away. But this IS the Magic Kingdom.
The Polynesian was beautiful with the luscious waterfall in the lobby.
After my encounter with that golfer the day before, I’m thinking I maybe should have visited The Holy Land alternative-to-Disney-park instead of Ft. Wilderness.
Naaaah! I’m more of a wild child.
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WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 22nd
Needing another dose of nature, especially after Disney, we headed out to Merritt Island. It is on the east coast and is the home of a massive bird sanctuary on the North and Cape Canaveral to the South.
We took a driving loop through the magnificent preserve, so carefully managed by the park. There is some fresh, some salt and some brackish water with ample mudflats for shore birds.
There were groups of nerdy bird watchers, one with binoculars more powerful than the next. Of course, of all things to forget, it was binoculars. However, a gal in one group handed me hers to watch a battalion of White Pelicans coming in overhead in formation. Spectacular.
We saw a wild boar romping through the grass and this lovely, I think, Snowy Egret, a bird I really had hoped to see.
We didn’t see any Roseate Spoonbills during this trip. But I always say you need to save something for the next time you’re back…so Rosey, we’ll be back!
We headed south of Cape Canaveral and met up with Jamey Rabbitt and his fiancée, Janel for a lovely dinner of fish tacos (the best I’ve ever had) at Grilz.
Jamey is the son of Karen and John, who we sailed and partied with in Tampa. It was fun seeing Jamey and meeting Janel. Not many weddings on our calendar…but wouldn’t you know it, theirs is the same day as Peter Deery’s. Peter wins…he’s a blood nephew.
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THURSDAY, JANUARY 23rd
Exercise called so we visited a trail we discovered last year – The West Orange Bike Trail. We ended up riding 23 miles in 2 hours, 20 some odd minutes.
It was a very chilly day, so biking was the perfect activity. See the flowers all covered up behind Kevin?
Turns out I have only 22 miles in these legs so that last mile was a burn! We met a sweet couple, Barbara and Rubin, who told us about another trail called “Witalachi”. That is going on our agenda for 2015.
Halfway back, we stopped at The Cricket Moon Café in Winter Garden for sustenance. It is a cozy café/bar that serves hundreds of different kinds of beers and has the propeller of a blimp on the ceiling.
We passed by Lake Apopka which we learned is ultra polluted and the home of many alligators. Not takin’ a dip there!
Our Marriott wine tasting, that had been so fun in Lake Tahoe, was just us and Wallace Vitek. It ended up being fun because of him. He was a character, just out of the JAG in the army, trying to reestablish his law practice in Baltimore. Kevin and he had lots to talk about. He gave us his card and invited us to stay with him if we ever found ourselves in Baltimore. Not sure when that would ever be, but thank you, Wallace.
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FRIDAY, JANUARY 24th
Knowing Donna and Wally Jawor weren’t arriving until later in the afternoon, and to allow no grass whatsoever to grow under our feet, we scheduled a round of golf at the 9-hole course. I had my best round ever. And, another wonderful small world happening happened.
The fellow we were paired up with was wearing a wind shirt that said “Quarles & Brady – Milwaukee”. Kevin remembered that our friends we had just seen in Boynton Beach, Wayne and Pattie, used to live in Milwaukee and that Wayne had worked for that law firm. Bingo. Tom Wozny started when Wayne was a partner. He remembered being out-lawyered by Wayne when he was eventually on the opposing side. I took a photo and sent it to Wayne, who after some prodding, remembered the young upstart.
Donna and Wally rolled in. After participating in Marriott’s Iron Chef Competition (I won…ok there was only one other competitor) we had dinner at Vito’s steakhouse. Eduardo was a smooth, debonair waiter. Probably hauled in over $100G a year at those menu prices. Dessert was divine.
Today was a continuation of my ongoing computer chat with Jack Hanrahan. We’re cruising with him and his wife in the Baltic in May. Since we decided to add days to the trip — Copenhagen before and Berlin post-cruise — and time was running out, planning had to be done. Way back when, Jack and I met in the world of Media Planning at Leo Burnett. Crazy and wonderful to be planning our next trip while on this trip.
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SATURDAY, JANUARY 25th
Today was Winter Park day. We’d heard so much about this lovely Orlando (ORLANDO!) suburb so got there in time to secure a ticket for the boat ride. The boat travels over three lakes, with a guide pointing out historical homes and sites. Good overview.
We lunched at Dexters, a trendy restaurant. I think that’s the only kind of restaurant there is in Winter Park. Then Donna and Wally shoved off…but that wasn’t going to be the last time we’d see them on this trip.
We checked out Rollins College — tuition is $57,000/year. Beautiful, with a huge cathedral-like church in the middle of campus.
Hope it’s worth it.
Home to watch the underdog, U of M, kick MSU’s butt in basketball.
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SUNDAY, JANUARY 26th
Exercise, pack, drive…the every-7 day mantra of this trip. The price of fun.
Here is a map of the entire area. Our next stop was at a Marriott on Marco Island, the southernmost part on this map:
Our Marriott condo at Marco Island wasn’t quite ready we strolled up and down the Crystal Shores. Where’s Don, as in Trump? Where’s Warren, as in Beatty? Where’s Waldo? Favorite pass time, it seems, sandcastles! I loved the American Oystercatchers, all facing into the wind…delightful!
As we unpacked the Rabbitts and Carl and Mary Burst arrived. We met the Bursts on a trip to Peru umpteen years ago. We stayed with them and went to his lavish 70th Titanic Birthday party last year, so were happy to see them again.
They regaled us with stories of their recent trip to Mt. Everest while we ogled the splendid sunset over the Pacific. What were all the freezing people in the north doing? We wondered.
After a lively dinner at C.J.’s at the harbor, sadly, Mary and Carl headed back up to Sarasota.
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MONDAY, JANUARY 27th
After breakfast we headed south to the Everglades. We tried to drive the 15 mile loop through the park. Too bumpy and we’d seen enough alligators and even a manatee, so opted to turn back.
Loved this dual-purpose (it HAD to be) post office/outhouse, because it was in Ochopee.
We had a long, lazy lunch at the Rod & Gun Club. You walk into this place and feel like you’ll see Ernest Hemmingway, pipe in hand, hanging out in the bar.
Our long, lazy lunch was either because of the incompetent waitress or not-up-to-snuff cooks. The good part was we sat in a huge wrap-around porch in gorgeous weather. We also had fun trying to figure out if the couple next to us was a January-December matchup or father-daughter. The way he kept looking at her convinced me it was the former. Lucky him. Maybe lucky her, if his pockets were deep.
We bought a slew of stone crab claws which we enjoyed on the porch of our luxury condo. That is, after we went downstairs to hear Johnny Fucho, an excellent singer who knew the words to every single request. Said he hailed from Las Vegas. Yea, I’d leave Las Vegas, too, if I could live on Marco Island.
We all started watching the movie Captain Phillips, but I soon departed to read in bed. Way too tense for me. I’m on vacation, after all.
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TUESDAY, JANUARY 28th
Sadly, the Rabbitts left. Without pals, we needed to find something to occupy our time, so we opted to head out on a guided wave runner trip into some of the 10,000 islands south of Marco.
Our guide said the number 10,000 is gauged on the high tide. It’s probably more like 11,000 islands at low tide. I rode on the back. When I tried taking the wheel, we swerved this way and that. So, I quickly gave up. We saw many birds including an eagle. There were pods of dolphins. Just before heading back we encountered a large group with numerous babies. So very graceful.
We decided to hop on bikes and do some exploring. Someone told us about the Burrowing Owls that are protected and nesting not too far from the resort. We rode our bikes up to where caution tape was suspended protecting their nests but saw only Burrowing Owl holes.
We went to a wine and cheese gathering that evening and met a couple of ill-at-ease engineers from Michigan. We then joined a rowdy group from Michigan that we met earlier. We enjoyed a very fun dinner at Stilts with them. It’s a casual second floor, open air restaurant on the Marriott property.
Our new Michigan friends. Now where did I put his email? Darn!
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WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 29th
We met our next guests, Tanya and Steve Sheridan, way down in Everglade City for an airboat trip.
The Sheridans live in Saugatuck, Michigan in the summer, vacationing on BBI every once in awhile. In the winter, they live in Sarasota. We’ve been to two of their three houses, so it was only fitting they joined us at the Marriott on Marco Island.
At Speedy Johnson’s Everyglade Tour, Tony twirled us through the everglades in a very, very noisy airboat that scared off any possible wildlife.
That is, except a raccoon who had been fed regularly by boaters. The raccoon never ventured far into the water, since he’s the alligator’s favorite food.
A pelican landed on our boat, but Tony shooed him off. Said you absolutely didn’t want to have their crap land on you—it’s nasty!
We picnicked in Everglade City, headed back to Marco Island and took a shelling walk from Tigertail Beach to the bird sanctuary.
Here was a group-effort decorated pile of sticks we saw along the way…great fun!
But before heading back to the condo, we took the Sheridans to see the Burrowing Owl protected area. Being island folks, we are all interested in nature…even if it means we only see the remnants of their habitat.
So, we pulled up to the caution-taped area to see the nests. While we ogled, who popped up but an owl! Definitely a highlight of the trip for me. He just stood his ground and stared back. Beautiful creature.
We went to dinner at an Irish pub across the street, and then back to watch college basketball. Steve is a HUGE Michigan State University (my alma mater) fan. He even took his entire family to the Rosebowl.
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THURSDAY, JANUARY 30th
Tanya and I planned to go to water aerobics but it was pouring rain. Our first brush with this much precipitation. We even got our bags wet hauling them out to the car. Good bye Sheridans, hello Naples.
We were supposed to play golf with Jim and Mary DeAngelo, our Charlotte friends who had joined us in Riviera Beach, but rain made that impossible.
We decided to take a trolley tour of Naples. Before that, we dined with a bunch of homeless guys at McDonalds. Seemed they took turns sleeping in one of the cars in the parking lot. These were down-and-out 30-somethings. Very sad. Half the billionaires in the world have property and spend some time in Naples but it doesn’t look like they take care of their homeless.
The tour ended up being really funny. Not on purpose, mind you. Only two of the three front windshield wipers worked, the windows were all fogged up and raindrops further obscured our view of all of Naples shopping centers.
Here is the trolley reflected in a shop window. And our view for much of the trip.
It’s all about shopping. I guess if you have lots of money you need a place to spend it. Naple’s most famous resident is Judge Judy. She earns nearly $50 million a year…and, according to the trolley driver, is a bitch. Why am I not surprised?
Our driver, a fellow from New York, who rambled on and on non-stop, nearly rear-ended a small car at one point. Yikes!
But, truly one of the funniest things of the whole trip…as in all of our-month-long Florida trip, was that the horn on this trolley blared every time we turned left. Many glaring patrons were left standing on street corners as we flew by, horn blasting.
We went to dinner at The Lighthouse and had a splendid meal. And, of course, it was mostly lively because of our dinner companions, Mary and Jim.
Mary & Jim’s place is wonderful. Life in the lap of Florida luxury.
FRIDAY, JANUARY 31st
We took off for Ponte Vedra, where we stayed for one more night before heading to Cary to retrieve kitty. That night we enjoyed a simply wonderful dinner next to a bunch of Swedes on a golfing holiday. (That’s our group, the Swedes are behind me.)
The very best way to end our trip…with big sister, Donna, and her husband Wally. Here’s my sweet Donna with her completely awesome mother, Lillian.
We had a very happy trip from Charlotte to Cary to Ponte Vedra to Riviera Beach to Tampa to Orlando to San Marco to Naples to Ponte Vedra to Cary to Charlotte…2,630 miles of memories.
See y’all in 2015!!
P.S. Here we are exactly two weeks later, cross country skiing on the golf course. Just five days before these photos were taken, we were putting on this green! Wild weather everywhere!
Zany events, as promised:
We got home on Super Bowl Sunday and were invited to a party. I didn’t exactly know who to root for, so looked in my closet for a clue. Lime green and navy jumped out at me…so Seattle would be it. I was the only person at the gathering rooting for Seattle. One fellow kept saying “seriously??” after each play. Someone even admonished me that “laughing didn’t seem like the right reaction”. I just couldn’t help it. Everything wrong for one team and everything right for the other…sweet dreams for one team, a nightmare for the other!
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Before leaving for our trip to Florida, I got a message to call the dermatologist for the results of a recent test. While on the road, I dialed the number and spoke to the receptionist, Gail. She put me through to Lisa. Now, I’d never met Lisa, but thought she was just a new nurse.
It wasn’t until we were well into it that I realized they had patched two of Dr. Pointon’s patients together. We were talking to each another about our test results, thinking we were talking to the doctor’s office. It produced this, in retrospect, hilarious conversation.
Lisa: I’m calling about the test results.
Mary: Well, was it cancer?
Lisa: Yes.
Mary: What kind?
Lisa: I’m not sure what kind. Just that it has to be removed. So can we talk about coming into the office to have it removed?
Mary: Oh no. Not in the office. Dr. Pointon doesn’t do these removals. Dr. Heniford does.
Lisa: Who is Dr. Heniford?
Mary: She’s a surgeon who does removals that involve plastic surgery.
Lisa: Oh.
Mary: So, can you send the test results to Dr. Heniford? I’m going to see her in early February so she can do the surgery then.
Lisa: What?
Mary: I want Dr. Heniford to do the surgery.
Lisa: Silence
Mary: Wait….do you work in the office?
Lisa: What?
Mary: Oh my god, are you a patient of Dr. Pointon?
Lisa: Yes.
Mary: (hysterical laughter) I’m a patient, too. How completely hilarious we’re having this conversation.
Of course, as one might suspect, we got to know each other and shared war stories. This didn’t make me love Dr. Pointon any less. I just wonder about her phone system.
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Just having crossed the border into Florida and while dining in Wendy’s (ok this isn’t about the grilled chicken sandwiches we had but they DO have the best straws in the business) a strange thing happened. It was at this moment I knew we were in Florida. A middle-aged man rushed in the side door and more announced than asked, “Did you see what happened over there?” pointing to a busy corner. “No, what?” I asked the same question that was on the tip of everyone else’s tongue. “A man riding his three-wheeled bike had the umbrella he was using fly into traffic.” People stood to look, necks were craned. No man, no three-wheeled bike, no umbrella. I imagined them all flattened in traffic. “Is he ok?” I asked the man. Either he didn’t hear me, or his town-crier duties were done. He opened the door and left. Florida nut, I’m thinking. I know they grow them here.
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Back on the road, we almost careened into a yellow cab. Another Florida nut merged from the far right lane into the far left;, without regard to our presence. VA Hospital – 2 Miles was on the sign that flashed by. Now wouldn’t that have been handy, Kevin being a veteran and all. But what about me? Might not have been so handy for me.
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Since I truly believe that Weird is Wonderful, the next encounter, this time via email, was most interesting.
I opened my phone and found several emails from people with the surname “Linson”. I don’t recall ever meeting anyone with that name but opened the first one, from Larry. This had been sent at 11:30 a.m. There were four photos of various women at what looked like a birthday party. The one who appeared in the center of most photos was quite elderly.
There were numerous emails from other Linsons (Teresa and George) with photos and cryptic messages, which I deleted. Enough already!
At 12:36 an email arrived from Larry which included three more photos with this same woman flanked by various people.
At 12:40 email included three more photos of the same ilk.
At 1:50 an email arrived with said woman and a friend, also silver haired. Both were wearing red blazers over black pullover sweaters.
Smiles abounded in all these photos.
At 1:52 I finally it reply to the last of Larry’s smattering of photos. “Who r u? I keep getting photos from Linsons and I have no idea who u r.”
1:58 (from Larry) Five more photos arrive. One was with THE lady and a forty-something fellow in a cowboy hat. I have a feeling this is Larry.
Larry must have read my query AFTER sending this last batch because at 2:00 I got a personal message: “I am so sorry. The funeral home gave me this email to send pictures to for my mother who just passed away.”
And then a follow-up at 2:14 “I called them and it was Derry instead of Deery. Lady, you have a whole lot of photos of a wonderful mom.”
Relieved I hadn’t been snarky; at 2:18 I replied “I am so sorry for your loss. She does look like a special person. You’re lucky to have these wonderful photos of her and the many people who, so obviously, loved her dearly. Now that I know, I’m going to go have another look at the pictures and say a prayer for her. I’m glad these came into my inbox.”
2:22 from Larry “Thank you for your prayers.”
When our kids were little, I would ask them, “How am I so lucky?” That’s what I asked myself during the three days the DNC convention was in Charlotte. Many friends and neighbors left town because of the madhouse they envisioned. Not us. We embraced the idea of thousands of out-of-town guests and the excitement that would mean. We made arrangements to be here and even planned to run a sort of B&B. Amy Cowman, a local NBC reporter, learned about our plans so did a story on us in April: http://www.wcnc.com/news/local/Homeowners-offer-BB-experience-for-DNC-guests-142973185.html
She mercifully did not use the footage of me holding up the commemorative Obama plate I got at Goodwill for $1.99. But our guests got a chuckle out of our political décor.
First off, I want to make it clear, I am very much an independent when it comes to political parties. Unless I hear about a candidate or issue, from a primary source, I have big, fat doubts. I like Pat McCrory, the Republican running for Governor of North Carolina (I happen to know his sister) but I think Democrat Obama is the man, now that I’ve attended all those raucous, inspirational convention events. To be totally serious, I watched the Republican coverage the entire week prior and didn’t find anything to hang my hat on. It came across as robotic, platitudinous, and sometime absurd (a la Clint Eastwood).
Tom, of our B&B guests Tom and Brenda, was Kevin’s friend from high school and college. Their daughter, Kristina, who works for the DNC, was in charge of credentials for the Thursday Stadium event – Obama accepting the nomination. Her life was turned upside down when, because of weather, they moved the affair into the arena reducing the crowd from roughly 65,000 to 25,000. But we were the lucky ones. Because of her job, we got to attend all the convention events.
These were the credentials that went unused from the Bank of America Stadium event.
No problem that we sat in nosebleed seats. We weren’t delegates, we were just at the right place at the right time.
Part of my objective to running our makeshift B&B was to get in on the action. Another part was to set a deadline so we’d finish decorating the darned uncompleted rooms. They were finally done the Friday before Convention Week! Thank you, Peggy, our incredibly able painter!
Our other DNC B&B guests were referred by Kristina. Kimberly and Scott were friends of one of her colleagues. It was comforting that people sleeping in our house knew someone we knew, who knew someone we knew. Kimberly and Scott turned out to be lovely guests, even feeling comfortable enough to request an iron to spiff up a button-down shirt for the big Obama event. Kimberly is a very accomplished writer and editor and interesting person. She’s a weekend DJ at a biweekly rock party in Atlanta, and a beekeeper. Check her out at: http://litreactor.com/team/kimberly-turner
One problem, which we didn’t expect, related to the cat. The guests knew we had a cat on the premises. Anyone who knows cats, understands how compelling a closed door is, but when there is something behind that door desperation sets in. We didn’t realize how sad she was to be left out of the fun and frantic she was to get through those closed doors. She would body slam them, ultimately falling into the rooms. At this point she would quickly scoot under the bed. The last night, Kimberly and Scott got in at 3 a.m. The next morning Kevin saw their door opening and kitty being pushed out. She must have gotten in the room before they climbed in bed. Uh oh! If it were our kids we’d be embarrassed, but this was a cat. And not even our cat – it’s the cat we are watching for our daughter who lives in Oxford, England.
On Labor Day Monday, prior to the official event, we braved the inclement weather and went to CarolinaFest with 30,000 other folks. It was fun getting caught up in the frenzy, watching celebrities and listening to Jeff Bridges and Baby James. I tried to edge up behind John Oliver and Jason Jones, of Comedy Central’s The Daily Show, doing a schtik with a chocolate vendor. John and Jason stuffed bonbons in their mouths until they could no longer talk. I didn’t get into the shot and it wouldn’t have mattered anyway, the bit ended up on the film editor’s floor.
This same afternoon, we met up with, Nancy Barrett, a sorority sister of mine. She was in charge of college students learning about the political process through their internships with The Washington Center. http://www.twc.edu/ It was so interesting hearing about all the parties and events to which they were invited. She was running on empty, following the same schedule as the students – up at 7 a.m. to bed at 2 a.m. Makes me tired just thinking about it.
There was a fellow on the street painting the scene on a canvas in oil. Turned out he is spearheading an effort to bring together 1,000 artists to create art during the inauguration, regardless who is elected. I guess you’d call it an art installation of an art installation. http://www.athousandartists.com/
Unfortunately, for the musicians, vendors and patrons, later in the day the skies opened up and dumped sheets of rain. Nary a dry shoe in the place.
Kristina and Brett told us how nice the care packages were for the volunteers. Included in these package was a water bottle that cleverly rolled flat when not in use. Our pals, Manny and Evelyn Guzman, sold 35,000 of these to the DNC. Small world!
Despite all the hang wringing about transportation and parking we did not heed the traffic warnings. All four days, we drove uptown and found street parking just outside the security perimeter, so only had a short walk to the events. In every photo of me, I’m wearing my sensible shoes. I’m too old to care what anyone thinks of my footwear. Comfort >Discomfort!
The last day, while heading uptown, there was a rainbow low in the sky…meaning there was precipitation somewhere. That must have been a huge relief to those who called off the stadium event.
Kristina, Tom and Brenda’s daughter, had two smart phones. She was on one of them every time we saw her. She was so darned smart!
Kristina met a fellow staffer during the month she was in Charlotte. Brett was in charge of recruiting and organizing the 3,500 volunteers for the Stadium event. After the stadium event was called, Obama made a special appearance at the Arena, surprising everyone. Kristina and Brett got a call to go downstairs to the bowels of the arena. Shortly thereafter, her mother got a text: “I just got a hug from the president.” They got to meet personally with the Obamas, who expressed their appreciation for the work they had done even though their efforts were for naught.
For Brett, it was more than a pin in his balloon when the venue was moved due to inclement weather…it was like a railroad spike in a zeppelin. Some of his volunteers were on buses, heading here from as far away as Arizona. He had to call and advise them to turn around. And to make matters worse, after telling them their services were no longer needed, he was instructed to recall 400 of them. This took place midnight on Wednesday and he had until only 7:00 the next morning for training. This is a job for the young. No doubt about it. Watching them, I could see it is addictive. Had I been younger, I could envision getting swept into the fray.
Learning about what went on inside the campaign, in even a small way, was utterly fascinating. I felt like the proverbial fly on the wall. Again, right place, right time.
The event was full of fun and surprises.
This sand sculpture was supposed to be Obama. Our coastal community of Myrtle Beach sponsored it. Someone had stuck their finger into it. When I went to point that out to the folks I was with, a security guard quickly reprimanded me. Not sure what he would have done had I poked yet another hole in the sandman.
We certainly felt safe everywhere we went. The hundreds of Men in Blue gave us comfort.
The protestors were creative but just kept shouting. You definitely got the idea they were mad at someone, but without visuals it might have been hard to figure out what pissed them off so much.
This was Google’s DNC headquarters. Very cool. Made from shipping containers.
There were dignitaries and famous folks. Since we didn’t go to any parties or hang around outside the arena much, our encounters with celebrities were limited. Recognize this guy?
Here was where it all happened. The first night we walked in through the rain with throngs, wearing our ponchos as instructed. However, many visitors were carrying umbrellas. With so many, I thought, they certainly won’t disallow bumbershoots inside. Wrong! Outside the door was a massive pile of collapsed, wet umbrellas.
From where we sat in the arena, we could see the various networks broadcasting the 6:30 news. A big-haired makeup artist worked hard on Scott Pelley, the CBS News anchor, patting on makeup and smoothing down his hair. We got to see Diane Sawyer, Brian Williams and Tom Brokaw…ok from the back, but we got to see them.
We missed James Taylor in the arena, but got to rock with the Foo Fighters. Who are the Foo Fighters?
The magical speakers, the ones who really got the crowd going, were Deval Patrick (no photo), Jennifer Granholm (photo blurry, darn!), Elizabeth Warren, Joe Biden, the Obamas and, of course, Slick Willy. Much of it felt like a revival.
The “Most Touching” award would go to Gabby Giffords. I’m not sure any of us realized how disabled she actually is. The girl has guts! “Biggest Surprise” would go to Eva Longoria. She was poised and eloquent. It was amazing that one of the Desperate Housewives could be Obama’s Campaign Co-Chair.
My friends and acquaintances poked fun at me for rearranging our vacation so we could participate. Turns out they were wrong. I wouldn’t have missed this for the world! How could I be so lucky?
I am Mary Struble Deery, and I approve this message.
Be sure to click on these links to see photos from our African Adventure.
I categorized them by photo type:
African Animals
http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss64/msdeery/N–African%20Animal%20Sightings/
African People and Culture
http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss64/msdeery/O–African%20People%20and%20Culture%202010/
African Trip Details (like transportation and lodging.)
http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss64/msdeery/P–Africa%20Trip%20Details%20Lodging%20etc/
Zanzibar
http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss64/msdeery/Q–Zanzibar/
Other OAT Travelers (probably only of interest to those who went on the trip.)
http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss64/msdeery/M–OAT%20Friends%20in%20Africa/
After a stupendous trip with Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) to South America in 2009, we decided to take their: Safari Serengeti: Tanzania Lodge & Tented Safari. At a base price of $4,000 or so, including airfare, it seemed like as good a bargain as the South American trip had been. We weren’t disappointed—it was a tremendous value, as you’ll see when you read the following recap of the trip.
This account is MY recollection of the trip. As with the group of blind men experiencing an elephant, one feeling a tusk, another an ear, yet another the tail, each traveler will have different reactions or takes on the trip. Lucky for you, mine were wonderful and positive. It wouldn’t be fun to read a downer account, would it?
DAY ONE Wednesday, March 10, 2010
My husband, Kevin, and I took off on a long flight from the U.S., during which the smarter of us slept. We landed in Amsterdam in the morning. OAT offered an additional overnight stay in the city (for a hefty fee) which we opted out of. It was 32 degrees in Holland. Hey, we packed for life on the equator and weren’t interested in lugging extra things for one day of cold. It turned out we didn’t need to layover at all. The transition to Africa time (8 hours ahead) was easy.
After just a two-hour layover in Amsterdam, we took off. The video screen read “544 MPH, 869 KPH and minus 80 degrees F, minus 59 degree C.” I marveled at the fact that we only had 3,866 miles and 6,256 kilometers to go. We flew at an altitude of 34,997 feet.
I’m lookin’ at that map on the video screen—almost over Africa for the first time in my life! After finally watching Blind Side, I saw the movie A Serious Man and with 3 hours left, I’ve started watching Up In the Air. This is cracking me up. I’m either Up In The Air with A Serious Man who has a Blind Side – or I’m getting Blindsided Up In The Air by A Serious man. OR…I’m up in the air about what to expect over the next 16 days. Hope the Serious Man–my husband–sitting next to me can lighten up a little. We are the quintessential ying and yang. Bodes well for an 17-day trip together, I hope.
DAY TWO Thursday, March 11, 2010
I was up in the air all day. The last leg was an hour-long flight from Nairobi, Kenya to the Kilimanjaro Airport in Tanzania. We were then transported to the lovely Olasiti Lodge in Arusha arriving quite late. There we met the other 14 travelers and three guides. Two had taken the pre-trip to the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro and said it was fabulous. (We never did end up seeing the mountain ourselves. Oh well.) Tanzania is located on the southeast coast of Africa on the Indian Ocean.
DAY THREE Friday, March 12, 2010
Wakeup was at 7:00 a.m. I didn’t appreciate getting only seven hrs. of sleep after that LOOOONG flight (30 hours of travel, 19 of them in the air.) Here’s how it went: Left house 10:00 a.m., flight at 12:40, two hours in the air, 3 ½ hr. layover in Detroit, 8 hr. flight to Amsterdam, 2 hr. layover, 8 hr. flight to Nairobi, 1 hr. layover, 1 hr. flight to Arusha, 1 hr. bus ride to the town of Kilimanjaro.
Our guide is Peter Njau. He is from the main tribe in Kilimanjaro, which is Chagga. Of the 8 or so kids in his family, as one of OAT’s top guides (he’s all over their main website) he is one of the only non-professionals. His brothers and sisters are doctors, lawyers and engineers. Even with parents who were farmers, they have all succeeded. This kind of success is common among people in Tanzania.
First tour was the Tanzanite Experience. They call it a museum, but it’s really a store. To get there we drove on the “Great North-South Road.” The midpoint of this road, which runs from Cairo to Cape Town, is in Arusha.
We took a small bus to the center of town, which was very crowded. The minute we got off the bus, we were hounded by men selling everything from cashews to jewelry. We climbed several flights of stairs and had to pass through a well-guarded area to get into the shop where they finish and sell tanzanite. Here’s what we learned. Formed 585 million years ago, it’s very expensive. No one bit and bought any. It was a pretty weird first impression of Africa…crowded streets, with unruly traffic, crushing crowds, trinket selling and then guards. And all of this on less sleep than we should have had. I’m thinking OAT should probably rethink this excursion.
In Arusha we passed by the new International Court where the Tribunal for Rwanda is taking place. This court is trying people for genocide. Some have already received life sentences.
Just passed the Solid Rock restaurant…wonder if it’s the African version of Hard Rock Café?
They tell us that Arusha is 47% Christian and 57% Muslim…but wait, that’s more than 100%! Maybe my confusion is some of that jetlag head stuff going on.
We hear about the language Swahili, but the real name is Kiswahili. Who knows where the “Ki” went in translation? It was fun learning some Kiswahili. Shanga mean “decorative items.” Shaanga is “to be amazed.” Their shanga was shaanga!
Speaking of shanga, we visited a coffee plantation inherited by a Swiss fellow. His wife, of Dutch descent, is a go-getter. Recognizing that disabled adults in Tanzania are throwaway people, she started hiring them to make beads and items to sell at a store she founded called SHANGA.
Loved seeing the deaf gal work on some sort of craft while she wore an Obama t-shirt. Of course, they LOVE him there.
Kevin got a wonderful belt and I treated myself to a very pretty string of beads made from paper! They served coffee and cake before we headed back to Olasiti Lodge.
We swam and hung out for a couple of hours at the wonderful pool while being entertained by Black Faced Monkeys with blue balls (!!) and it wasn’t even cold.
We had real hotel rooms at this lodge. After showering, we visited poolside. We met some folks from Detroit who told us the post-trip they had signed on for to Zanzibar Island had been canceled. What?? Seems power from the mainland was disrupted…and had been so for 3 months! We hadn’t heard a thing about this…and we were scheduled to go on the post-trip. Oh well, guess we’ll have to wait and see what happens. By the way, the post-trip to Zanzibar cost an additional $1,000 per person. I figured, when would we ever be back there to experience Zanzibar, an island state within the United Republic of Tanzania? Twenty-five miles from the coast it has its own semi-autonomous government made up of a Revolutionary Council and House of Representatives. So six of the sixteen travelers opted in to visit this spice island.
Dinner was the first of many, many, totally delightful meals. Vegetables are so plentiful and cheap in Tanzania that they made up 90-95% of our fare. Each lunch and dinner included 5-7 different vegetable concoctions with different spices and sauces. You could load up your plate and not feel uncomfortably full. This cuisine was typical…so in spite of eating with reckless abandon, both Kevin and I actually lost a pound. The Tanzanian people walk so much and eat this wonderful food. It’s no surprise that they are strong and lean.
Speaking of the people. They are beautiful. Mostly very dark, and on the mainland at least, seemingly very happy. They would wave and smile every time we passed…kids and adults alike. I’m not sure if it’s because of the income tourists bring into the country, or if they are genuinely happy. Probably a combination.
At this meal I read my “Titillating Tale of Warnings” to the group. It was about OAT’s silly warning to “wear brassiers due to bumpy roads.” (I think people liked it.) Then we played the card game “31” until 10:15 or so. Barrie was in a battle until the end with Esther. It was the first time she had ever played. But he won with 2 coins left…no surprise.
DAY FOUR Saturday, March 13, 2010
Up at 7:30, nice breakfast and then off to an art gallery sponsored by OAT. I bought a bracelet made from cow bone. Turned out this particular gallery had quite high prices, compared to other shanga shops we visited later. However, they had us where they wanted us…unaware. Thankfully, I never saw the bracelet any cheaper. Some may have regretted their purchases at this store after-the-fact.
During the trip we rode in Toyota Land Cruisers, customized to have roofs that opened. Each of us had a window seat, and when the top was removed we could stand to take pictures or ogle with binoculars. We were hoping there wouldn’t be acceleration problems with this class of Toyota….flying uncontrollably through the Serengeti isn’t my idea of fun. We saw other, higher-class vehicles, which had tops that popped up providing shade and protection against the rain. But, those tours probably cost more.
Today was the fourth anniversary of Lily’s husband’s death. Lily was a fellow traveler. Manfred, also known as Manny, was on an OAT trip with his brother-in-law, I think in India or Indonesia, and had a massive heart attack. Sounds like he was quite an amazing person…was the only one on their last trip to Tanzania to have actually taken a drink of fresh cow blood at the Maasai village. (Something the men in this tribe do every morning. For iron or something?) We toasted Manny at dinner.
Today we drove through rolling hills dotted with Maasai family villages, with today’s driver, Salim (prn Saleem.) The Maasai, one of 250 different tribes in Tanzania, are semi-nomadic people. Due to their distinctive customs and dress and residence near the many game parks of East Africa, they are among the most well known of African ethnic groups. Historically, they were considered fearsome. Believing all cattle belonged to them, they rustled cattle throughout Tanzania. Raiders used spears and shields, but were most feared for throwing clubs (orinka) which could be accurately thrown from up to 100 meters. They are fascinating people. There is more about the Maasai later in this recap, since we visit one of their homes.
As we drove, we saw cows on one side of the road, farms on the other. This is to avoid conflict between Maasai and non-Maasai. Here, farmers primarily grow corn, red beans and carrots.
It took 1 ½ hrs.to get to Tarangire National Park (prn – Tarren-gear-aye.) The roads were very rough and rutted. Big dilemma was whether to keep the windows closed and suffocate in the heat or open them and be suffocated by the dust kicked up by the vehicles. We did a little of each.
We had box lunches, prepared at the lodge before venturing into the park. There were brazen Black Faced Monkeys everywhere. In fact, in an instant, one grabbed Gene’s sandwich, which he had set down momentarily to get a drink. Survival of the fittest, I guess.
Here we saw our first elephants. They can hear low frequency sounds 15 kilometers away. Their ears are cooling systems – 70 liters of blood flow through with each flop. The African elephant is very different from the Indian Elephant. You’ll never see African elephants in the circus, because they are mean. Also, the ears of each type are shaped like the country from which it hails.
Here’s the first, of many lists of things we saw: Grant Gazelle, Secretary Bird (which uses its legs to “type” in an effort to kill snakes…yummy!) donkeys, lioness, warthog, ostrich, Tsetse Fly (more on this later) Velvet Monkeys. (Within this document, all the animal and birds listed are in bold italics, so they are easier to identify, if that’s all you want to read.)
When you hear about the “Big Five” it’s a group of animals defined by hunters and not the logical five you’d expect. They are: lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino. (What about the hippo and giraffe?)
OAT is always encouraging travelers to “learn and discover.” So in that vein, here are some VERY interesting facts we learned. Everyone knows elephants travel in HERDs, but what do zebras travel in? How about giraffes? Here’s the lowdown:
Elephant and Buffalo: Herd
Geese: Gaggle
Lion: Pride
Rhino: Crush
Warthog: Sounder
Hyena: Clan
Jackal: Pack
Giraffe: Journey
Cheetah: Coalition
Crow: Murder
Zebra: Dazzle
No one I’ve spoken to yet knew many of these. So, here’s to learning and discovery for the day!
The trip to our next lodge seemed shorter but was still painfully rough and dusty. We saw a local bus just flying down the road, rocking and rolling. That even scared our very able drivers. Apparently, there had been a big bus accident in the previous couple of weeks with many fatalities. No surprise.
We had a couple of hours to clean up and wash off layers of bug spray and sunscreen. We were now at the Lake Burunge Tented Camp for two nights. These were very comfortable permanent tents with full showers and a porch overlooking the lake.
Now, about Tsetse Flies. They prefer dark colors, so we were encouraged to wear lighter color clothes. So there really IS a good reason for all the khaki! There is extensive research taking place about the effects of the Tsetse Fly. The Sleeping Sickness that it can cause has been awful for the country. You would occasionally see blue hammock-sort of devices hanging from trees. These were to attract the flies and contained a chemical, which makes them sterile. I’m aware of no vaccine. I learned that if I unexpectedly become tired in time, it might be from one of the 3 or 4 bites I got. But, odds are good it’s dodge-able, since 97% do not carry the disease.
Before the trip, we received vaccinations for Yellow Fever (mandatory to enter Tanzania), got the Hepatitis A series, and updated Tetanus shots. We took Malarone to prevent Malaria (which for me caused wild and crazy, but thankfully not scary, dreams) and packed a bunch of Cipro in the event Tanzania’s revenge set in (which it eventually did for us in Zanzibar.)
As usual, before dinner we had a meeting during which Peter answered any questions we may have had about the day and told us the plan for the next. After which he would always say, “Is that a good plan?” More of a rhetorical question than anything else…and endearing.
After dinner, a Maasai carrying a stick (spear?) accompanied us each to our tent. OAT is very protective of the travelers. Apparently, hyenas or even lions could have been on the prowl. I actually saw my first zebra wandering in front of our place just before we headed out for dinner. We hit the sack at 9:15 because wake up the next day was 5:30 a.m. They managed to hook up Kevin’s CPAP machine. It only conked out a couple of times during the night. Choke, choke! Since it was dark when we awoke, there were the Maasai waiting to accompany us. So reassuring!
DAY FIVE Sunday, March 14, 2010
Up at 5:30 and left for a 2nd day at Tarangire, after coffee at 6:10. We were with the main guide, Peter today, which was great because he really knows his stuff. I saw and he helped us identify 36 different kinds of birds, my very favorite being the Woodland Kingfisher. It has a big red bill and blue and black markings. Gorgeous! They make the same distinctive cry as our local kingfishers. (We eventually saw well over 150 types of birds.) Here’s the next list (added to yesterday’s sightings): Giraffe, a squished fox on the road being eaten by an immature Tony Eagle.
A Dix Dix, the smallest antelope, dashed by. We saw waterbucks (it looks like they have a toilet seat on their butt.) It is interesting to see how the animals co-exist. They keep what is known as an appropriate “flight distance” between them. This is like our very own “comfort zone” but it is just the right distance to allow them to escape if necessary.
People ask us if we saw tigers. Well, no, of course we didn’t. Although there is fossilized evidence of Sabre Tooth Tigers from millions of years ago in Africa, they currently can only be found in India, Bangladesh, Nepal and Bhutan. So, there’s a little more learning and discovery for you.
We had a picnic lunch at a little spot overlooking the Tarangire River. We saw a herd of elephants milling around on one side of the river and watched some of the bravest of them actually make the crossing. You could hear their trumpeting…and there were many babies among them. Wonderful.
The monkeys hung around waiting for another sandwich, but the guides were armed with slingshots. They used pebbles and managed to keep the monkeys at bay.
We loved the Baobab Trees. Elephants use the trees to scratch themselves and sharpen their tusks. Look closely and you’ll see this one has a huge hole in it, caused by the elephants. Researchers can’t tell the age of the tree through typical methods since it doesn’t have growth rings. However, using radiocarbon dating, they have learned these trees are thousands of years old.
On the way back to the lodge, one of the vehicles got VERY stuck in a muddy rut. After unsuccessfully trying to pull it forward with his vehicle, Peter gave up and hooked a tow cable to the back. He managed to drag it out backwards. It wouldn’t have been too long before the Landcruiser was up to the axle in mud. Phew!! There is absolutely no help out there, so we were on our own. I wasn’t in the vehicle that was stuck, but imagine there was a huge cheer when it was finally dislodged.
On the way back, we stopped at a store to buy beer. The guide and Barrie, a fellow traveler, got out to make the purchase, leaving the rest of us in the vehicle. It was “market day” and we were engulfed by people trying to sell us everything. They would stick their hands in the vehicle and blabber on in Kiswahili. Very disconcerting. They weren’t evil people; they had just invaded our “comfort zones” (we didn’t have the correct “flight distance” from them.) After Barrie got back in the vehicle, he bought 5 necklaces for $5 but I didn’t want to get anything started, so passed on the low price offers.
Africa is not for the faint-of-heart. I kept thinking about how my brother-in-law wouldn’t last a minute here.
Back to the lodge for a wonderful vegetable-heavy lunch. Beets, cucumber & mango salad, cabbage, red pepper in curry, carrots. After lunch, I lay down on the huge open porch of the dining area/bar and wrote. That evolved into a delicious hour-long nap.
Before dinner a group of us took a walk with a couple of Maasai men; Msfiri (or something like that) and Lobulu (really cute guy.) Along the way, they pointed out various plants and told us how they use them, primarily medicinally. We climbed a huge rock hill, which provided a 360-degree view of the surrounding plains and nearby Lake Burunge.
DAY SIX Monday, March 15, 2010
Today’s first stop was to visit Lobulu’s family compound. This Maasai family welcomed us warmly. Each woman in the OAT group was selected by a Maasai woman. They wrapped us in colorful Maasai cloth, called a Kanga. Then they put these beaded flat collar type things around our necks as well. A gal named Eva, probably about 17, chose me. We all danced together by jumping and shrugging our shoulders making the Shanga (collar thingy) bounce. One gal would chant a song and then the group would repeat it over and over again while we all bounced. It was very lively and smiley. The Maasai men did their jumping dance and selected men from our group to join them one at a time. Yes, undoubtedly this is where the “white men can’t jump” expression originated. Since the women do ALL the work in the camp, each of us got to climb on top of one of their huts to lay down some grass (photo op) and then the braver of the women (not me) spread the concoction of cow dung, mud and water on the exterior wall (another photo op.)
After this, we all went into one of their stifling hot houses, pungent with smoke smell–nauseatingly so–and learned of some of their ways and traditions. We asked questions, they asked questions.
First wife, along with the husband, chooses the 2nd, 3rd and so on, to help her with the work. Between the ages of 13 and 20 males are circumcised in the presence of all circumcised men. If he cries or shows discomfort, he is shunned for the rest of his life. That’s a huge improvement of what they used to do, which was to kill the unhappy boy. That is progress. However, the women are still routinely circumcised.
There was a young girl, about 8 or 9, who was so beautiful, I could envision her in the pages of Vogue, like the gorgeous African model, Iman.
We were a very lucky OAT group to have had one among us who actually spoke Kiswahili. Gil’s family had been displaced, first from Poland and then again from Cypress, during WWII. They ended up in Tanganyika (which it was called before the name change to Tanzania, using a combination of Tanganyika and Zanzibar.) So, this older, White, Jewish guy from New York surprised the heck out of everyone we encountered. They absolutely loved it that he spoke such great Kiswahili. Apparently, he even knew some jargon.
The Maasai women laid out all their wares on blankets and we each made a few purchases. I gave Eva a photo of our family and she loved it.
The matriarch, a little shriveled up lady well over 100, was sitting in the shade near the corner of a building. We each gave her money. I gave her a family photo, which she also seemed to enjoy…with her toothless smile.
On the way to our lodge, we stopped to see the men of the Makonde tribe doing their carving.
They are known for their work with Ebony and Mahogany. We fell for it and spent $160 in their store for a tall Ebony giraffe, a cute bowl with a giraffe drinking and two masks–one a zebra, the other a giraffe. We saw this very same loot later in the trip for considerable less. (My husband begs to differ.) If I was right, oh well. We were contributing to the Makonde’s welfare. They smiled a lot. Wonder why?
After this stop, we went to the Tloma (the “T” is silent) Lodge. VERY nice with a beautiful view of the lush area of the Ngorongoro Crater, the location of our next encounter with African animals.
After checking in, we visited Ngiapanda (“Crossroads”) School. This is a primary grades 1-7 school. Kids walk from as far away as 5 kilometers. And they do it four times daily since they return home for lunch. No chubby kids in that school. It was fun to see one little grubby, maybe 6 year old boy, wearing a Michigan sweatshirt. This school had 15 classrooms and 650 students. In some cases, the only way to tell the girls from the boys was that girls wore skirts. All the kids have hair shorn very short. Class sizes ranged from 31 to 62. This school is a jewel supported by Grand Circle (parent company of the group with which we traveled.) Before we left, the headmistress told us what they needed. Among the usual stuff, they requested 6 more Holes. By that they mean, 6 more holes in the ground the kids can use as toilets. When they say “Hole” they mean hole.
Back to luscious Tloma for another great meal and prepping for our next day’s excursion in the crater.
Finally had a chance to check the internet. Peter mistakenly told me not to bother bringing a bathing suit on this leg of the trip…he was so wrong. There was a beautiful pool. He spoke to the manager, a lovely gal named Happiness, and she loaned me a baggy but functional suit.
DAY SEVEN Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Five-thirty wake up call, left the lodge at 7 to go the Ngorongoro Crater. On the way, we passed a speeding convoy, the first vehicle swerving back and forth, apparently to “sweep” the road of any oncoming vehicles. It was the security detail of the President of Madagascar, who was visiting Tanzania.
The crater is the largest extinct volcano on earth with a basically dry bed. Twenty-five thousand animals live in the Ngorongoro Crater. Some wildebeest come and stay here (and don’t participate in the huge migration) because there is a constant source of water and food. The only animal not in the crater is the giraffe. The hills are too steep for them.
We entered the park on a road shaped like a mound, which produced a very tilted ride. We first drove up to the crater edge, then along the top and then down, down into the crater. We passed groves of Acacia tree and the lovely flat-topped Umbrella trees. (Maybe they’re Umbrella Acacias?) There were many beautiful vistas through the dense jungle-y vegetation.
The only water source is one lake, teeming with thousands of flamingos.
After making it to the crater floor, we saw a multitude of animals and birds: Cape Buffalo, elephants, Grants Gazelle, vultures (2 kinds,) Maribu Stork and lions. A male crossed in front of us.
According to our guide, lions aren’t interested in eating humans. They don’t know how easy we are to catch and how delicious we are. If one happens to have a human encounter, the rangers kill it immediately. They don’t want word getting around about how good we taste.
We followed a rhino plodding along parallel to the road. Eventually, he passed right in front of the vehicles; and I mean right. Rhinos are in the Serengeti but for some reason, tougher to find.
We saw a dirty little hyena sleeping in a culvert on the side of the road.
We saw a pair of Gray Crowned Cranes. (Their crowns are spectacular.) We saw our first cheetah, lolling about on the ground right on the side of the road. The big excitement was when we followed 2 hyenas chasing a baby wildebeest and its mother. The guides speculated that the wildebeests made it to the large group, thus implementing the “safety in numbers” phenomenon. Other animals we saw were: waterbuck, Thompson Gazelle, zebra, hippo, ostrich, harthogs, hartebeest. Teeming was the word in the crater. Permits only allow vehicles 4 hours of access to the crater. They are really trying to optimize the experience by limiting access by both fee and time. This is a good thing, given what an incredible gift this crater is.
We continued bouncing along for another 3 hours through idyllic Maasai Country to the gates of the Serengeti National Park. “Serengeti” means “Endless Plain,” and that it is. When the Maasai first explored the area looking for a place to settle, the horizon just went on and on, thus the name. It’s grass of varying heights as far as your eye can see. We headed another hour into the park, finally arriving at our tented camp known as Simba. The tents are on the ground and the floors are rubberized. Each has 2 beds, tarp sinks in front and two wooden chairs. Attached to, but separated by a zip-up wall, is the bathroom. One side has a real, flushable toilet, the other a shower. The solar battery is in this area, which is open between the tent and floor. We met travelers who found a Puff Adder snake curled up around the battery for warmth. YIKES! Folks on our trip had rabbits in the bathroom area of the tent. It IS their territory, after all. (We never saw any snakes at all.)
To shower, the water boys fill a 5-gallon bucket behind each tent and then hoist it up so the user can pull a lever and it showers down. If you need more than 5 gallons of this perfect-temperature water, you just holler “MORE.” Of course, the first day, before I figured out it’s more prudent to get wet, soap up, then rinse, I had to holler “More!” Water is a precious commodity in the plains, so, yelling “More” wasn’t really politically correct.
At the camp, beer and wine were plentiful and free. The meals they prepared, for about 25 people, in the middle of nowhere, were amazing. They had a two-burner stove and a rudimentary oven (for which they needed to make their own charcoal.) The chef wore white and had an official chef’s hat. So many vegetables…simply wonderful! They did have a refrigerator (run on a generator) and recharged camera batteries for us daily.
Each tent had 3 hours of solar power for lighting and a kerosene lantern in front, which burned all night. Later we learned that four lionesses came through our camp the first night…and maybe more. The “Ballooners” (more on this later) saw them early on the morning they headed out for their float. Apparently, the guides got into their vehicles and chased them off with searchlights.
DAY EIGHT Wednesday, March 17, 2010
We voted to get an early start, so with just coffee and toast under our belts, we headed out at 6:00. This was the view as we dined that morning:
In spite of the early start, the only new animals we saw were the topi (2 bulls were sparring-playing) and the smelly rock hydrax, which live on the kopjes. Kopjes (prn. “copies”) are remnant outcroppings of volcanic rock. They have a variety of vegetation growing on them, so they provide excellent shelter, not to mention a view of the plains for the animals. Peter’s vehicle had a flat tire…the big excitement of the morning. This morning was a bust…but that’s just the way it goes with wild animals.
We had a break from 1-3:30 for lunch and to rest. At lunch, a wasp went up my pant leg and I got stung 4 times. I ran out of the dining tent and dropped my drawers to get rid of the critters. The bites healed quickly. I wore rubber bands around the bottom of my pant legs from then on. Here is where we dined:
Speaking of difficulties, on the way to the school, Marsha got something in her eye. The guide took her to a U.S. Doc-run clinic in Arusha where the doctor bathed and filled her eye with antibiotics. He didn’t have the Q-Tip he needed to probe for any foreign object. But, she went back the next day, after suffering with a HUGE white bandage covering her eye. He took a final look and thought she’d be fine…which, thankfully, she was. He is such a boon to people in the area. He charged Marsha $20 but asks the the locals $2 or whatever they can pay. I guess the moral of this story is to remember to wear sunglasses to protect against flying objects.
I’m speculating that the guides must have had a little discussion about the lack of wildlife in the morning, because on our afternoon excursion we stopped for educational moments. We learned about the symbiotic relationship between ants that build “galls” in the Acacia trees to discourage the giraffe from eating it. The ants swarm and deposit pheromones, making the foliage inedible. We saw: a flock of Superb Starlings in a tree…looked like a Christmas tree with decorations. They glisten such a pretty green-blue and have orange markings. A group of Guinea Hens, rhinos in a pond, and Herons. We saw an elephant mom with two babies. One had to be adopted since elephants only have one calf. The biological mother must have died. Finally, we spotted a Leopard sleeping in a Sausage Tree. This is a leafy tree with what looks like long sausages dangling from the branches. Heading back to camp, we saw a Black Backed Jackal (AKA Silver Backed Jackal) standing on top of his den. These animals mark just like domestic dogs. He went in and a smaller female came up to the den very close to us, unaware, or uncaring. We WERE upwind…this may have had something to do with it.
DAY NINE Thursday, March 18, 2010
Here’s a list of some of the things we learned: You can spot an abandoned termite nest, because it will have grass growing on it. Vultures have featherless heads and long necks to be able to reach into dead animals to scavenge. The gazelle and ostrich sometimes hang together…ostrich has good eyesight and provides warnings for gazelles. Ostriches can weigh up to 300 pounds. Females can have as many as 30 chicks. Their excrement, called cloacae, is urine and feces passed at the same time. (More than you wanted to know?) We saw a mother cheetah with 3 cubs. Cheetahs are very good with training. The mother catches prey, lets it go and allows the cubs to try to make a kill. If it gets away again, the mother will eventually kill it for a meal. All within sight at the same were ostrich, topi, Grants Gazelle, wildebeest and zebra. A bull elephant (male) weighs 13,000 pounds (6 1/2 tons) and eats 700 lbs of food daily. In January, two tourists, a mother and child, were killed in Kenya by a mother elephant. You don’t want to mess with them. A giraffe can stand 18 feet tall. Their tongues can be a long as 18” and they are prehensile, which means it can grasp or hold objects. We saw two male lions lazing on a kopjes and a female lioness not too far away. There was a feast going on with about 20 vultures of varying types, feasting on a Thompsons Gazelle.
We saw a very pregnant cheetah. Nearby there was a baby wildebeest. Either its mother had died or it had been abandoned. It was sitting alone in a field, just waiting to be someone’s dinner. Maybe the cheetah’s? We saw Thompsons Gazelles (with the striped horns) play fighting. It was so very dusty today. Carola, very accurately, called this “a two bucket day.” On the way back we saw 4 hyenas dragging a gazelle head out of the mud to chomp on. A cheetah we watched following a herd of aazelles was very interesting. The cheetah would move forward, the gazelle would retreat–sort of a Serengeti dance. Cheetahs only have a 30% success rate.
We stopped to check the “tire pressure” now and then (take a wiz.) Our lunch at the kopjes, under a beautiful Acacia tree, was a wonderful setting, but the wind was incredible. The wind speed was “enough to blow a banana off your plate.” (Quote Lily.)
This photo of the 16 of us was taken after lunch at a huge kopjes.
The big migration is 1.6 million wildebeest, 500,000 zebra and 440,000 Thompson Gazelle. In February 30% of the female wildebeest drop a foal and then they start traveling clockwise, covering a total distance of 1,000 kilometers. Feb-April they start leaving to go to central Serengeti. In May, they start out again. The rains determine the migratory pattern.
About 500,000 zebras accompany the wildebeest in this migration. All the migrating animals cross a river on the way up and again on the way back, thus feeding the crocodiles twice. Incredibly, some of these crocodiles only eat once a year…so it’s imperative that they score when the migration takes place.
At the end of this day, we saw a Leopard lolling in a tree, exhausted from dragging her kill (a Bohor Reek Buck) into the tree with her.
DAY TEN Friday, March 19, 2010
Barrie, Carola, Marsha and Bob went on a balloon ride, followed by a champagne breakfast. They were up in the air for 52 minutes. It cost $450. They said it was great, but I don’t regret taking a pass on this opportunity. We followed them as they floated over the river.
We saw many impala “Bachelor” clubs. Only the strongest male impala accompanies the females and can be overthrown by any other male that challenges his strength and wins. They can’t run very fast, but can jump.
We went to a very smelly hippo pool, then moved on to one with a moving stream, so it wasn’t so smelly. More people are killed by hippos in Africa than by any other animal. In addition to these 100 hippos, there were about 5-6 crocodiles in sight. Adult hippos can stay underwater up to 7 minutes, the cute babies only 1 minute. There was a dead hippo submerged where the crocodiles stayed. Apparently, they were waiting for it to rot, so it would be easier to eat. Then, after this appetizing viewing, we headed home for breakfast.
After lunch, we headed out again at 3:30. We saw the same leopard as the day before with his kill moved yet higher into the tree.
Normally we wouldn’t have seen other vehicles, but word had gotten out about this leopard and they are hard to spot. There were at least 10 vehicles jockeying their way to the closest point to the tree. We witnessed the Gray Crown Cranes in their mating dance. It’s an elaborate boogie, in which both male and female participate.
Nearby a group of Guinea Hens were squawking like crazy either as a diversion or to drive off a Steppe Eagle, who was looking them over. We also saw a tree full of storks.
After Peter’s recap of the day around the campfire, he told us about his tribe and their customs.
After dinner, I passed out “OAT Serengeti Menagerie” Awards. Each person on the trip was matched to an appropriate animal (like, I was a Secretary Bird.) Most everyone was appreciative of my efforts. Lily told us about her grandson poking her drawers and telling her “you have big underpants, Grandma.” That cracked me up.
DAY ELEVEN Saturday, March 20, 2010
We stopped at a gorge where the Leakeys started extensive archeological work that is still going on. Oldupai was the original name for this site. Early visitors called it Olduvai and that’s how it was written in textbooks. So it is now, officially, Olduvai. The deposits have yielded the fossil remains of more than 60 hominids (members of the human lineage,) providing the most continuous known record of human evolution during the past 2,000,000 years. Some researchers think that the evolution of man started here; that this is where man started his migration across the globe. However, Lucy (named after the Beatles song “Lucy In The Sky With Diamonds”) was unearthed in Ethiopia 3.2 million years ago. Recently a skull was found dating back 4.4 million years (forget where from.) So, there is some controversy.
On the way out, we saw a male elephant mounting a female. The guys laughed about this scene being the origination of the term “getting hosed.” Real guy humor!
Then one of the guides spotted a leopard walking intently through the grass. We turned around to follow her. She meandered right past us, and I mean right, after which she headed to a kopjes. This encounter was very rare. She was right in front of the vehicle. Along the way, we decided that it was prudent to “not limp around hyenas.” Don’t exactly know where that tidbit of wisdom evolved…but we thought it was funny. On the way out, we spotted many, many (over 25) giraffe eating Wiggly Thorn Acacia Trees.
DAY TWELVE Sunday, March 21, 2010
Back in the luxurious Tloma Lodge, Kevin thought my white noise machine was turned up very loud during the night. But then he realized the noise was pounding rain on the tin roof. I did have the machine on to drown out a barking dog in the middle of the night. Here is a photo of our room at the Tloma Lodge.
We went through the market, but opted to avoid getting out of the car due to muddiness. I was just as glad since our cars were mobbed with people trying to sell things to us. On the street it might have gotten really weird. Luckily, Gil was with us in the vehicle and he entertained the masses by speaking to them in Kiswahili. We saw a fellow with a shotgun making his way up the street, followed like the Pied Piper by a group of people. Apparently, he was going to shoot stray dogs in the vicinity. Big entertainment, I guess.
We went to the Karatu Assembly of God where they were in the middle of their Sunday service. Peter had pulled this little encounter together as a discovery and learning opportunity, and that it was. We were welcomed very warmly. Each of us stood up to introduce ourselves, after which we received applause. The entire congregation (it seemed) formed a receiving line when we left. We didn’t want to be rude, but did pull out the hand sanitizer after that one.
We went to a location where 20 families join forces to make bricks in an elaborate pile, fired by burning logs inside the pile for 48 hours. These piles are comprised of 10,000 bricks. We saw a typical home of the Iraqw tribe. Our guide from the brick family, Pauolo, his family and wife (Pauolina) played native instruments and danced for us. One, called a Zeze, is a fiddle made from a gourd; others were a Tambourine and a Marimba. The Marimba is a small wood box with silver prongs that make a clinging noise, which resonates the box. This instrument is taken along as entertainment on long walks…sort of like an African IPOD. They invited the women to dance after wrapping a Khanga around us. It was very lively.
We drove through the western wall of the Rift Valley escarpment and visited a fellow who had renamed himself “Suliman.” He brings street boys to his house and trains them in art. He is the youngest of 8 children so is responsible for his mother…and he is still single. Many of us bought his art. Although his prices were very low, we collectively spent around $250+.
Here was the outhouse at Suliman’s home.
Back to the Tloma lodge for another delicious vege-laden lunch. Most of us then headed out for a 3-hour hike up to the Elephant Cave and Endoro Waterfall. The walk was through a Ngorongoro Conservation area. Tribal activities, conservation and archeological exploration take place in these areas. National parks are only for conservation—no other activities are allowed. Mao, a very knowledgeable 73-year-old guide, led us.
We saw the tracks of buffalo, hyena, opossum and many droppings…one fresh buffalo pie I managed to step into. We saw a dung beetle nosing his way under a fresh pile to dig a hole and lay an egg. The vegetation was very lush, full of birds and butterflies. The baboons let us know their displeasure as we walked through their area.
Our last night together Peter asked us to share our reactions about the trip and to give any suggestions. It evolved into a bit of a bitching session, which somewhat surprised me, but everyone got stuff off their chests. Seemed folks wanted more time in the Ngorongoro Crater. Peter hadn’t made clear that the officials limit visitation time to keep it less congested and better for all. Once everyone knew that, things settled down.
DAY THIRTEEN Monday, March 22, 2010
Sadly, we had to leave the luxurious Tloma Lodge today. First stop was a reliable T-shirt stop. Not cheap, but good quality. I bought one with a map of Africa. Riding with Peter, he got a huge kick out a sign on the back of a bus we were following: “Masikini Haheshimiki” which means, “Poor people aren’t respected.” We all loved Peter’s colloquialisms: “Thank you for eating.” Thank you for coming.” “Is that a good plan?” He was a simply wonderful, really masterful, trip leader. The other two leaders, Salim and Manny, were very knowledgeable and “good with people,” a necessary skill with a group of 16.
Even though time was getting tight, this was our shopping day. We stopped at the OAT shop, “African Trek,” to pick up things we had purchased and stored there. Then we stopped at a private Maasai gallery where there were many things to purchase at pretty good prices. Final stop was a modern grocery store…which didn’t allow much time for those of us leaving for Zanzibar to get back to put bags in order. We were crunched for time, which wasn’t helped by a huge traffic jam, but eventually we made it back to the Olasiti Lodge where we had lunch. I cleaned all the ants out of the bag I’d left (my bad, there was food in it) and we repacked for the flight. At the airport, they weighed both the carry-on and luggage together. With our carvings, we were overweight so had to pay extra. Oh well. Funny that this didn’t happen when we left Zanzibar. They wanted us to shop ‘til we dropped on the island and didn’t want to penalize us for doing so.
We flew to Zanzibar in a small turbo prop plane. The journey took 1 hr. 20 mins. We were hit by tropical heat when we emerged from the plane. A fellow named Mohammed, from Zan Tours, met us. He was only hired by OAT to get us into a hot cab. We were on our own after getting to the hotel. We were taken to Mtori Marine Hotel, which felt moist and creepy. It seemed we were just dumped there. Our rooms were way in the back and near the staff parking lot and road. We passed huge fuel storage tanks, which were also right next to the hotel. Unfortunately, the direct road to the hotel was blocked, so we had to take a funky detour. It was an unpleasant way to start our visit.
At the hotel, even though the temperatures were quite high, we were greeted with a cup of Lemon Grass Tea. Lemon Iced Tea would have been better. The pool was huge and beautiful, overlooking the Indian Ocean with a Western view. That night there was a sunset that, I swear, had an opening in the clouds in the shape of Africa, sort of.
The rest of the place was very tired. Don’t let this picture fool you. The rooms were small and the lighting left much to be desired.
They just had electricity restored to the island after a 3-month outage. Turns out the tourist industry just got going in the 90’s and they have a long way to go. The people there seemed less happy…they didn’t smile and wave as did the Tanzanians on the mainland. Zanzibar is 97% Islamic, but I only saw two women in a full Burka. All other native women we saw wear colorful Kanga wraps head to toe. The current government is quite oppressive, so perhaps the tourist dollars don’t yet reach the common man. Once that happens, there will be lotsa waving and smiling.
We decided to have dinner at the hotel restaurant, which was really their sports bar–the real restaurant had closed for the low season. They seated us at a table on the beach, and we got a few insect bites. Turned out there were chiggers that came out at night that got us. Oh well. Kevin got sick on the way back to the room and I got sick during the night. Here is one of the little hotel critters:
I wondered what the bug spray on the bedside table was for, and then witnesses the hotel help coming into our room in the evening to spray the netting around our beds. Wonder what that might have done to our nervous systems?
DAY FOURTEEN Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Needless to say, we skipped the tour of Stone Town the next day. The others saw where the slave trade took place, so that might have been too depressing anyway. Plus, it was ungodly hot. So, if we had to get sick, that turned out to be the best day. Cipro is magic though. We were able to join everyone for dinner that night. Again, we ate on the beach at the hotel, which turned out to be one of the best restaurants available to us. Below is a street scene from downtown Stone Town.
DAY FIFTEEN Wednesday, March 24, 2010
We felt better, so took a tour of the Sultan’s Main palace, currently under renovation. It’s pretty sad– they have a long way to go. It is one of 50 palaces that were built on the island.
We waded out to a small boat and headed up the coast past the navy (no photographs or you’ll be arrested!!) and Dar Es Salaam University. We waded up to Princes Salame’s getaway—the “Omani” house. It was converted to a hotel at one point, but is now also being renovated as a historical site. She was one of the Sultan’s main wives’ daughters and quite a feisty gal. Princess Salame is much lauded in Zanzibar. She ran off and married a German (scandal!) but she didn’t much care what people thought. We enjoyed a traditional coffee ceremony with small cups of strong coffee, a sweet nut bar, dates, biscuits and some delicious jellow-y-like slimy stuff.
We drove up to Yosef’s Spice Farm. He inherited it from his father who inherited it from his father. They originally emigrated from Oman. He seemed almost Western, however he was married to a native, who wore a colorful Kanga from head to toe and had five children. He knew tons about the medicinal properties and values of plants. The gov’t had seized three quarters of his family’s farm and redistributed it. His wife, even with a headache, had worked diligently over a beautiful meal for us. In his small living room, he had chairs from a dismantled African Air airplane – comfy, sort of like elaborate La-Z-Boys. They were very gracious people. While touring, we saw a very lanky, strong young man shimmy up a coconut tree and hack off a couple of coconuts. We tasted the fresh coconut juice and meat. Two fellows made us all hats, rings, bracelets, necklaces and glasses (!) out of coconut tree leaves. We bought some spices and soaps from Yosef before leaving.
We visited some Persian baths, which were being restored. These were on the highest point on the island.
We returned and Carola got a couple of henna tattoos. We spent time at the pool being entertained by a very personable waiter, Tika , who loved saying “Vonderbar!” We headed out to Stone Town to a restaurant that was supposed to be one of the best on the island. The trip there was one of the most difficult of the entire time we were in Africa. The blocked main road meant we had to drive through a very congested neighborhood teeming with adults and children and many one-way streets. Most uncomfortable both physically and mentally. The restaurant was on the top of an old hotel. It was a very windy evening. The food was not even good. My 8 oz. glass of $8 wine, was, at best, 5 oz. Real rip off….the whole meal. The fruit sorbet for dessert was simply fruit cocktail. My mom made me eat fruit cocktail and I just can’t abide it. Oh well. As usual, however, the conversation was very lively. The six of us got along famously. I don’t know when it started, but “checking for ticks” became a euphemism for “getting together” with our partners.
DAY SIXTEEN Thursday, March 25, 2010
Wilfred Jones, of Zan Tours, picked us up and we traveled in a comfortable van to the northeast coast of Zanzibar. We visited the beach community of McHangani. This village is dependent on the sea: boat making, net/trap weaving, seaweed farming and fishing.
We stopped at the very luxurious Blue Bay Resort. It felt like a swanky Marriott, but with Maasai guards. Apparently, since they are used to sleeping outside of their homes, on the lookout for predators, they make very good guards. We learned that my new T-shirt that says “Zanzibar” means “the land of black people.” The resort was built by Italians who are the predominate tourists. That’s why, when we were acknowledged, the greeting was often “Ciao!”
We went to an area called Kidimini to see how they make the elaborately carved doors that are all over Stone Town. Youngsters were there hawking their own rudimentary carvings but by now we had learned to ignore, ignore, ignore or risk being mobbed.
We stopped at a school where the kids, unlike all the people along the roadside, were very jolly. They laughed, and waved and loved having their pictures taken. A group of 7-year-old, aggressive, borderline-mean boys, surrounded me and nearly knocked me over. They were nuts!
We had a beautiful lunch in a lovely setting at another spice farm. We especially loved the eggplant, which was prepared with garlic and coconut milk among other ingredients.
Our last stop before heading back was at a store called Memories, where we got our final souvenirs. Marsha broke down and bought the mask she had been eyeing two days before. A bit of a hassle getting it home, but I’m sure, worth it.
We ended the evening with dinner on the beach again, playing the card game “31” in the bar and dancing the night away to Bye Bye American Pie. The staff joined us too…so it was quite the “happening.”
DAY SEVENTEEN Friday, March 26, 2010
On our last day, we decided to take a snorkeling trip to Prisoner Island. While snorkeling we saw small jellyfish, which slightly stung a couple of us, beautiful fish and coral. The fellows on the boat pulled up two very vibrant starfish; one with bright red markings, the other bright yellow.
They had mentioned something about turtles or tortoises, so I thought we’d be swimming with them, but no. When we went onto Prisoner Island (which hosts a hotel that looked much like Mtoni Marine,) we went into a preserve for Giant Tortoises. They handed each of us a bunch of greenery and we actually got to feed these huge, lumbering, beautiful creatures. They would stick out their large tongues and chomp away (keep your fingers out of the way!) and if you ended up dropping the remnants, they used their claws to pull the food closer to them. It was absolutely fascinating to be so up close and personal. I don’t think this would ever happen in the U.S. I didn’t know we were going to meet these critters, so I left my camera in the boat. But Carola rules! She sent me these pictures.
Prisoner Island was never used for prisoners as planned. Instead, it was a place to quarantine people. It was also an additional landing dock from which to transport slaves.
We spent our final hours lolling in the water, eating lunch poolside and having a final shower. This was the only day I got sunburned. Stupid. In Tanzania, we were 3 degrees from the equator, in Zanzibar, 6 degrees, so you don’t want to mess with the sun. We waited for our transportation in sweltering heat. It was the hottest, muggiest day yet. We took a puddle jumper to Dar Es Salaam…and I mean puddle jumper. It was a prop plane, which flew at 2,500 feet. Kevin said he could actually see huge fish (probably sharks) in the water. I sat in the front row so had to close my eyes quite often.
We had a 7-hour wait at the airport, after the 20-minute flight. It was awful. No air conditioning, only oscillating fans to occasionally move the air. We felt like dishrags. But, we sucked it up and played a couple of games of “31” to pass the time. Finally, we got on the plane and took off around 12:45 a.m. From door to door, the return flight home was 34 hours! With nine total flights throughout the trip, amazingly, none were ever delayed. At that point, thankfully, the volcano had yet to erupt.
SOME FINAL THOUGHTS….
We hadn’t really done proper research, so didn’t realize that we were one of the last groups to head into the Serengeti. We traveled just prior to the rainy season, so it could have been bad had the rain set in early. We also didn’t realize that our trip to Zanzibar was during their low season. That, plus the negative impact being out of power for so long made on the island, caused that part of the trip to be disappointing.
Something travelers should be aware of is that it is necessary to bring LOTS of cash. We never had a chance to stop at any cash machines, and even if we had, they very likely would have been empty or not operational. We were handing out tips right and left. On our entire trip, we spent, probably $1,200 in $1, $2, $5 bills. Plus, we happily tipped our awesome guides, following the guidelines suggested by OAT.
OAT suggested bringing a fancy camera with a good zoom feature. I only used a Canon PowerShot SD800 IS digital camera with limited zoom capabilities. Most of the photos in this blog posting are from that camera. If you’re inclined to buy a new one, a fellow on the trip had a Nikon P90 that he paid around $360 for. We were all drooling over the shots he got. Incidentally, a handful of the photographs within this document were taken by fellow traveler, Warren. The lovely man gave me permission to include them. Thank you, Warren.
Someone on the OAT website suggested bringing an additional pillow due to the bumpy roads and I wrote a comical piece about it. Don’t bother. The pads in the vehicles were fine.
Another suggestion was to have a hat with netting. We didn’t need them, but there might be other seasonal times it might be handy. Those hats are pricey, so be aware you may be just wasting your money. I brought a swatch of netting that I safety pinned around my head one day. That $1.27 a yard material was worth packing.
And, don’t forget your bug spray and sunscreen. You can’t buy this stuff most places. At Tloma Lodge, sunscreen was available but it cost $18 for a bottle. So, like a good Girl Scout, be prepared!
Overall, the trip was wonderful. Being introduced to Tanzania was grand and meeting the people, a highlight. So few non-Africans will ever have a chance to experience that continent…we were definitely among the lucky few.
The memories and spellings contained herewith are subject to error…it’s me remembering and recording all this, after all. Whad’ja expect? Also, since this is a journal, written on the road, some of it is in past, other in present tense. Hope it wasn’t too difficult to follow.
P.S. Here I am, scribbling away in the main gathering place of the Burunge Tented Camp.
Come hither to see what is magic about Bois Blanc Island, Michigan, the location of our annual summer retreat. And, if you, or anyone else you know might be interested in buying a piece of this paradise, let us know.
This website ‘splains it all…